Ridgid drill/driver kit with 2, 2.0AH batteries

[rvpopeye]

I think those old makitas used C sized nicad  cells. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BPHQM3..._2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

 

Quite possible  , I bought it in 1998 IIRC.  
I haven't taken one apart yet. 
It would be nice being able to use the original charger too !

[sternwake]

I think my first Makita drill was in 1996. Batteries still kinda ok in 2003..orange battery pack.

I fried charger on msw inverter, then wired for 12v, which would also charge battery pack if i had it in but easily overcharge too.

Forgot it was charging.
Smelled burning abalone shells.
Battery fizzled for a few hours well outside and downwind of camp.
Cant really remember where the drill wound up. I had alligator clamped it with 12 awg.
Probably left it in Baja with somebody who could use it.

[rvpopeye]

My drill is in the cab somewhere..gotta go look.
I thought it was back here but it wasn't where it used to be .
Rotating stuff a lot till I finish the build when it warms up. Almost ,but no cigar..
I don't need it , just would be nice to use it without the wire sometime .
It will plug in at any of my SB50 ports. Cab or bench.
And have a 50' extention to reach anywhere in the rig and a good way away from it too..
Super lightweight without the battery pack ! It was light WITH the battery in it!
That's why I bought it. post elbow damage playing with loud heavy things....
It came out next after the 9.6v stick batts. Orange batt sounds right .

[sternwake]

When i was using my 9.6v craftsman a lot on my GC-2s, which were also powering lights and fans, id notice if the leds were maxed out brightness wise, the drill would dim the leds noticeably as e pected, but they seem to flicker far brighter for a few MS, when letting abruptly off the trigger.

My craftsman drill makes a high pitchedx whine at low trigger/rpm levels. I had a snap on ferrite on the 12awg, and noticed it too , next to the battery 8 feet away, emanating that same high pitched whine , at the same volume, as which came from the drill itself.

I removed the snap on ferrite and decided to only use the craftsman drill on my 18 or.22 ah agm batteries with no other loads attached to them...

No other.loads seem any worse.off from being in parallel with the drill, but perhaps it is a.cumulative stressor.of magic bits on circuit Board.

[sternwake]

Adjusting to the Ridgid drill and driver's triggers is taking a bit longer than expected.

If the drill has been sitting without use for a while, there is a noticeable delay before any response, even a quick full trigger pull, but then subsequent pulls immediately after, have just the dead spot/soft start on the first section of movement then respond more like I anticipate.

with less practive than anticipated, The 1/4" impact driver trigger is allowing a unexpected precision of torque. It's got so much torque available, it can pretty much just jam nearly any screw until either the bit holder bottoms out,or the screw's threads just strip the wood, or the screw shears off in the concrete.
but When trying to just cinch a screw down lightly, as one would use a hand screwdriver, that is easily possible too. More precise than The makitas and Craftsman drills which I am now unlearning.

I cant seem, yet, to accomplish the same precision with the drill, at least not on speed 2, and if switching to speed one, no chance, yet. At least I can set the torque clutch extra light and just increase it as needed, but it too if just cranked up can just sink the screw or strip it, or break it or both. I cant remember how powerful the makitas werewhen new, with new full batteries, but these Ridgid's have power to spare, even with the small 2.0 Ah provided batteries.

One thing I hate is the noise of an impact driver when it is quiet outside, and my old Makita at night, was disturbing, so i'd use the drill, but the ridgid I can use the impact and prevent the impact hammer, with just the trigger, driving most screws...

I hope to become used to the drill's trigger soon, and not have to rely on the clutch to prevent stripping.
It's a bit like getting used to a new clutch in a 5 speed manual vehicle, behind a rebuilt motor. Different power curve, different engagement of that power. cutting the wheel and letting off the clutch and mashing the pedal, its either slip the clutch or spin out, instead of a power drift out of the turn.

I'll get it. but its taking some practice.

I can see why the Ridgid angle grinder got some bad reviews regarding battery usage. Some also claimed it just shut off when loaded hard with the smaller 2.0Ah battery under hard load. It is a power hog, and when loading the cutoff wheel, or grinding disk, or flap sander, it does not really slow down with increased load, like I expect from using corded 4.5 inch angle grinders.

I've not yet had any issues with loading it so hard it shut off even with smaller battery, like some of the reviewers claim, but perhaps I have mechanical empathy that they dont.

I really tried to keep the guard on, but am so used to the freedom without it, had to take it off today, which was easy peasy as its got a toolless push lever rotate function, rotate it till the arrows align and then pull straight up and off it comes.

Back when i used to make production surfboards, after sanding the last 'hotcoat' of Polyester resin to 220 grit, we'd use a sponge to apply some concrete sealer evenly in two coats, then once those dried, use a red scotch brite pad to reduce the rubbery feeling and even out the 'luster'.

Today I ran into that, or a similar product, on some actual Concrete, to which i am intending epoxy to bond strongly.

A new razor blade in a Lisle holder, with lots of pressure, would lift the sealer in a thin brittle film, for about 4 inches, then become nearly useless. flip blade over for 2 more inches than useless.
After the 6th razor blade, and doing the math,I decided to use the grinder with cutoff wheel in left hand and vacuum in right hand to collect as much dust as I could for removal of a majority of the remainder.

I expect epoxy would bond fairly well to the ancient concrete sealer, but how strong is the bond of the sealer to the concrete below? if that bond fails....Shitshow tool throwing curse fest, so off comes the concrete sealer.

I guess I am trying to rationalize the purchase of the angle grinder, when I wanted the larger of 2 'jobsite blowers' that Ridgid offers, but screwed up the timing regarding 2 4.0 Ah batteries.

I have drained a 2Ah and a 4Ah battery to 1 of 4 bars in the grinder so far. The cord would have been a PITA in the tasks in which I did so. i did not drain batteries until they shut themselves off, hoping to avoid that depletion below ~15% level was kind of surprised to find just 1 bar and 17.71v when I checked and replaced battery.

While my corded grinder I never really needed the arbor tool to lock down the arbor tightly enough upon the abrasive disc, the Ridgid has a 'toolless' arbor, whose design and function I do like. Kind of like a half moon lever that flips up and one can use their fingers to tighten, flip down once done. I wonder if they sell that 5/8 locking arbor piece separately. I'd get one for my corded grinder if reasonably priced.

I'd like to be able to dial the grinder's speed. Oh well.
But full speed and less pressure can teach a new skill, and refine older ones.

The Ridgid user's manual recommends against using it with thin cutoff wheels, seemingly as they are prone to breakage and failure with centrifugally thrown shrapnel lawyer wet dream stuff.

The AG has no issues locking down upon a thin cut off wheel, and when pushing hard on it to cut off a stripped portion of a 8mm Allen key, it barely slowed. My cheapo corded angle grinder would have easily slowed from its 11K max likely to well below the 9K rpm max of the Ridgid under the same load. So while Max unloaded RPM might be a selling point, RPM maintained under load is a more pertinent measure of performance, perhaps dismissed by those with no experience.

.......

The 4 OK 18650's i pulled from the 18v Ryobi failed battery are performing OK, but with a wider mAH delivered than the initial test. I've been using them either to charge my phone in a thrunite C2 single 18650 powerbank, or powering my small Bluetooth speaker that i modified with an external 18650 holder, when its provided internal 18650 battery became useless.

I have plenty of older higher capacity 18650 batteries, but a big bass note at higher volumes, with the battery at ~60%, can shut off the speaker with these batteries, but the Ryobi salvaged batteries will have the low battery audible signal come on several times before it just shuts off completely. So basically the less capacity higher continuous amp rated older batteries, at higher volumes, work better inside the speaker. Lesser volumes and the higher capacity batteries go for longer without issue.

Powering the thrunight c-2 to charge the phone its kind of a wash. The mAH delivered from the higher capacity batteries is slightly higher, but the higher amp lower capacity batteries can provide the 1.56 amps for longer and charge the phones low battery to a higher level faster, but give out at about 800Mah, where as the old Panasonics ncr 18650B deliver about 1150, but drop from 1.56 amps to 0.89a, and less, faster.

Either way, I've plenty of 18650s to charge a dead phone, and play music all day, and the Ryobi salvaged batteries are delivering, and the 5S 18650 holder from the failed Ryobi pack, is very convenient for cell storage and organization and employment.


There is a failed 'dustbuster' my dad was going to throw out for the failed lithium battery within.Well i suspec they are lithuim. it came with a cradle, which when the unit was returned, brought it back to and kept it at 100%. great for lead acid batteries, not so much for lithium.

I think I might do some experimenting with its battery pack, as he bought a replacement dustbuster which is not so impressive, but is convenient as heck. I have soldered wire to batteries before, but spot welding tabs is stronger and safer and a tool and skill I want.

I still intend to measure voltage into the Ridgid battery charger from its included 18v, 60 watt wall wart, when charging. I can't easily see any tamper proof warranty nullifying screws/devices, but will perhaps nullify warranty anyway on one unit, for curiosity either way, when the round tuit slaps me upside the head. I wonder if the less than 21v cutoff voltage is because of the powersupply's limit. I'd love to just use my DC to DC 150 watt converter set to 21v( or 20.37v), for when I return to living in the Van, rather than an inverter powering the '18v, 60 watt' wall wart.

As long as the 'to do' list was for my now neglected van, which I've not even seen for 5 weeks now, the list for the parent's home is equally long.

i cant believe how bad some of the HVAC ducting work is. Seems like less than 80% of what reached an output vent was designed to actually exit the vent into the room, and the return vents could easily suck air from behind the drywall/ inside the hot attic, instead of the room space they were designed to exhaust.
Intolerably wasteful.
I'm hoping to reduce the Electric bill/KWH used, even though my presence adds to the electrical load.

[sternwake]

Been getting a lot of use from drill and driver, as well as some from the angle grinder.

I am getting used to the drill's trigger, the driver's trigger seems far more intuitive to my Makita trained trigger finger.

I'm really liking the balance of these tools and the rubber grips. I recall my former Makitas becoming all slippery, and while 'when new Makita tool and new Makita battery memories, as to power, are a decade old, i believe the Ridgids are simply more powerful. Driving 40 3.5 inch deck screws in well cured treated lumber reveals a lot in this regard.

While I abandoned my disliked 3 gallon porter cable pancake compressor in California, I brought all my nailguns and airhoses, and have very much desired my finish nailer for a few jobs, but have no tanked compressor, and decided on clamps or screws, instead of pin nails to hold pieces while glue or epoxy dries.

I've considered modifying a 1lb green propane tank to work with my modified MV-50 12v compressor, but I leave that in the van and the van, unfortunately, miles away.

I do not want a huge tanked compressor, I want compact. I've no need for a huge tank or huge cfm at high PSI.

Today in Home depot, I was checking out the compressor offerings, and saw this.



https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/33287175796

runs on the 18v ryobi battery

Enter the 18v Ridgid to 18v Ryobi battery adapter.



The micro 1 gallon compressor is still on the wishlist, but I have ordered a ridgid to ryobi battery adapter.

My dad has a 4.0Ah 18 ryobi battery for his weakass leaf blower, and I likely could modify the failed 2.0 ryobi battery casing and make my own adapter, but....

I might have gone a different route on some tools had I been aware of the battery adapters beforehand.
I wouldn't want to go ryobi battery to ridgid dewalt makita or Milwaukee tool, but the opposite only adds a little height.

In hindsight, if i had been aware of the Ridgid battery deals, and the adapters, I would likely not have abandoned my worthless battery Makitas in California.

There is a small Senco 1 gallon tanked compressor, 120vac. It's cheaper than the Ryobi. Might wind up with that instead, but who knows. I hate inverters, and have no idea if or when i will move back into the van, but the mindset of compact/weight and how to reliably power it in the middle of nowhere, sans generator, is still a top consideration even though it might never be realized/needed.

In my ventilation thread i posted about my intentions to use an 18v Ridgid battery to power a 12v Delta fan for a cargo shorts pocket/portable fan.

There is an adapter to run various kids wheeled toys or other projects on 18v power tool batteries, instead of the small 12v lead acid batteries they came with.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter...CQFOIW5CYF&keywords=ridgid+battery+adapter&qid=1680844486&sprefix=ridgid+battery+adapter%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-2

There's also adapters with USB ports, and one with a 175 watt inverter for use with Ridgid 18v batteries. I got portable compact USB ports covered by other means, but not the inverter, but not sure what portable 120vAC device I might possibly need to carry in a small backpack or cargo shorts pocket.

Anyway, those needing some cordless power tools in the middle of nowhere, might benefit from these continued ravings.

[rvpopeye]

Ryobi also makes an 18v brad driver . No compressor to find room for.

[sternwake]

If i had the ability to sell things, I would get rid of the air tools all together.

[rvpopeye]

Selling isn't in my vocabulary either.......

[sternwake]

Warranty destroyer.
Unregistered Ridgid 18v 60 watt  battery charger.
There is a 22 -2 awg, 6 foot powercord, from wall wart, to  battery charger cradle.
I Cut it 6 inches from cradle and installed a pair.of Anderson PowerPoles.  Place wattmeter inline.

With wall wart converter plugged into 123vac, It outputs 20.47v unloaded, No ridgid  battery in cradle.
Insert battery, initially 2 amps begin to flow into 3 of 4 bar 2.0ah  battery.
 Voltage dropped into the high 19's, but has since risen to 20.47V at SAME 2 amp load, and now to over 21.2v Now that amperage i has tapered  to 1.2a..
So far, it has delivered 0.41ah to cradle.

The unloaded starting voltage dropping on load, but then rising, with saMe load, makes me think that the specific voltage delivered to cradle does not need to be absolutely precise. 
I dont think the 18v 60watt wall wart transformer is capable of the precision.

I think I can set my 150 watt dc to dc boost converter to 21.12v, and power the cradle  directly from my 12vdc system.

That should show whether the 2 amp current limiter is inside the cradle, or wall wart transformer.

If its inside the wall wart, then i can potentially charge the Ridgid  battery at 150+ watts instead of 41 watts max, which  is overkill, but potentially handy..


Ok,it appears current limiter is inside wall wart.converter, and not cradle.

 The rested 19.83v   , still reading 4 of 4 bars, 4.0ah 18v ridgid 4.0 ah battery is now sucking 100 watts  through 150 watt dc to dc step up boost converter which is being powered by my 22ah 12.44v  agm battery,

So no inverter needed, and I can charge  ridhid batteries at 100 watts, jnstead of 40.

Yeeehawwww!!!!!!!
Can I get a harrumph outta that guy?

The ridgid to ryobi  battery adapter arrived .
Fits tightly on battery, and into dad's Ryobi leaf blower.