Battery chargers

[rvpopeye]

If someone doesn't want to or can't figure out all the special adjustments and just have a good converter .
THEY get a discount........ and no controller.
Probably not a bad marketing idea right there..

[sternwake]

I've not seen the Iota X model line up before.

Iota's standard algorithm get the battery to 14.8v, holds it for a short period then drops to 14.2 for its absorption.

14.2 is a bit slower to reach true full than 14.8 but is a bit less harsh on the battery and will reduce water usage some.

The Non X models, I believe have many different IQ-4 modules for different batteries and desires. All will slightly vary the max voltage allowed, how long it is held and the absorption stage voltage might be the maximum voltage allowed, or it might drop to a more gentle lower 14.x volts.

The IQ4 modules, do not allow for manual override of the stages, as far as I know.

Iotas are good. The dls-45 did a good job on neighbors gc-2s and some wally world 29s before that.

The PD9245 likely achieves true full charge faster than the dls-45
The DLS-45 likely reaches ~85%SOC faster than the PD9245.

There might be more IQ4 modules for the NON X version which make it faster to 85% and faster to 100% than the PD9245.

Do research the IQ4 models for both the X and NON X versions. If you have long tiomes to plug in and reach full charge, then the standard 1q4 is fine and dandy. If getting to as high as possible a state of charge as fast as possible there is likely a battery iq4 which gets to 14.8v and holds 14.8 or 14.6 longer.




The AGM profile is often good for deeply cycled flooded batteries as it tends to hold high absorption voltage for longer.

Annoyed that they do not actually say what voltage it achieves and how long it holds it. Intolerable lack of precise information, for me.



YOu can always get more than 1 IQ 4 module for different usages as there is no one size fits all even on the same batteries, as summer and winter and deep vs shallow cycling all require slightly diferrent algorithms to achieve closer to ideal results.

Hardening a non marine electronic device for salty humid environments can be done easily enough with some conformal coating
https://www.google.com/search?q=conformal+coating&oq=&aqs=chrome.3.69i59i450l4.1153001j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Looks like the Iota has screws, instead of rivets, holding the Lid over the guts, Meaning eazy peazy access to electronic guts

I think the fan, where the wires enter the hub, is one of the biggest failure points of such devices.

I'm all about the Amazing goop or clear nail polish over these solder joints where the wires enter the fan hub.

Once the fan goes, the device can fry.

[sternwake]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrYClCgsPpw&feature=youtu.be

Get the turbo! IQ4 turbo

https://www.iotaengineering.com/resource...al-library

[Blacktank]

could you find the charging voltages and such for the turbo?

here is the x model https://img.acuitybrands.com/public-assets/catalog/1189480/iota--iq4x-smart-charge-controller-for-dlsx-models.pdf?abl_version=06%2f16%2f2020+19:02:14&DOC_Type=SPEC_SHEET


the x model is an upgrade over standard dls  and comes with a 3 year warranty

on the lota site they dont have the specs for the dls charge controllers just the x model one,why?

without the controllers these are trickle chargers,13.6v or so

did see a vid with who knows who saying they have a hack but i tend to not trust who knows whos
 has two more short vids but didnt take before measurements


see what happens when you give me options,analyze everything 

is there one where you can manually set the bulk,absoption and float voltages? or did the lawyers outlaw that

[sternwake]

Manually setting absorption absorption duration and float with 40+ amps is 600$ dollars minimum xantrax and magnum inverter charger territory. Under 250$ its right on the shelf next to dehydrated concentrated unicorn tears.

My meanwell rsp-500-15 has 40 amps available.for achieving any voltage from 14.12 to 19.23. About 120$... but modifying necessary for better. VOltage adjustment and manual. Human error inevitable.

[sternwake]

I assume 14.8v on the turbo. Lack of this info infuriates me.

Dont scare the customers with actual numbers...just use many adjectives. So very good. Not bad. So very very beautiful good....trust us.

Hopefully marketing strategies will evolve away from the current zeitgeist

[sternwake]

Take your time. Research. E mail. Be sure you Get what you want.

[Blacktank]

the deed is done

i ordered the lota dls-55 x and a charge controller $170

55 amp

the charge controller is stated 14.8v bulk,14.2 absorption and 13.6v float

says it can accept 2 gauge wire,might have enough 2/0 i can whittle down,we shall see

thanks for the help surfer dude

https://www.solar-electric.com/iota-engi...arger.html
https://www.solar-electric.com/iota-engi...odule.html

[sternwake]

Reading some of their marketing/ and terminology, can be a bit misleading.

Like PD,  they call a destratification charge, an Equalization charge.

An EQ charge is bringing the battery to as high as 16.2v after a normal 'full' charge has been completed.

Neither the PD or the Iota, will goto 15.5 to 16.2v and can't actually complete an equalization charge.  

Beware of marketing.  Some charging terms are deliberately misleading to make the product seem more appealing than its competitors, when it is not.  


Bulk stage is 55 amps applied for a maximum of  225 minutes OR until the

:"either 225 minutes or until the battery voltage reaches the “High Trigger” value (whichever occurs first). At this point, the BULK STAGE will operate for another 15 minutes before switching to the ABSORPTION STAGE."

How long it takes 55 amps to get the batteries to 14.6v, depends on:
The amount of battery capacity
The level of depletion/State of charge
State of health
Partial state of charge cycles accumulated since last true full charge, which is ties into state of health.
 Battery temperature


So once 55 amps gets the DC terminals on the IOTA to 14.6v, and the battery  terminal voltage will be somewhat less than this, it depends on teh thickness of the copper the length of the copper and the quality of the terminations.. 15 minutes later it will drop to 14.2 volts.  In that 15 minutes after 14.6v has been achieved  the maximum the voltage will be allowed to rise to, is 14.8v.


Then their  absorption stage is 14.2v for 4 hours.  This is obviously not as fast as if it were to maintain holding 14.8v for 4 hours, but it is less abusive, and when the battery is new and healthy the time difference will not be significant.

I think....If one wanted faster charging in the 85%+ range, they could unplug the unit, and replug it in, then it will hold 14.8v for 15 more minutes...I think.  not sure if the DC would also have to be disconnected too, and if it sensing high surface charge voltage  when turned back on....will then try and re enter the bulk phase where max allowed voltage (14.8v) is allowed for 15 minutes.  You will have to just find out, if you are curious.


Then their float stage is 13.6 volts 

If the unit is floating the battery for 7 days....

when the IQ4-X initiates an equalization stage to remove sulfate layers from the battery plates. In either situation, the unit exits the FLOAT STAGE and enters the BULK STAGE.

So bulk is allowed to go as high as 14.8v after one week floating the battery at 13.6v.

13.6v as a float voltage is pretty high for a flooded battery.  That is usually AGM float voltage  territory.

Flooded float voltages are usually around 13.2v @ 77f
  continuously plugged in and fully charged, 13.6v will use more water than 13.2v.  Long term plugging in is likely not desirable with a hot battery.

The  X model will likely have more of the IQ4 x versions like the Non X models offered in the near future.

The 'fault stage' indicates it will shut down on an 'overvoltage condition' .

This "might' mean if you have your solar attached, when the Iota is floating, or perhaps even in Absorb,  when your solar wattage by itself can exceed the amperage required to bring the battery above the voltage the Iota is trying to maintain, it 'MIGHT' shut down.  It  might not restart itself and then not maintain float voltage when teh sun goes down, and then your battery is powering your loads when you think the Iota is.  Be aware of this potential occurrence.

Some of the wording seems to indicate it would not happen unless 15.2v is reached and it will restart when battery voltage falls to 12.8.

When you use this in parallel with Solar, I'd recommend watching it when the battery is 90% plus charged and see what happens when the solar by itself, can maintain 14.2v plus and does its 2 hour thing.

Depending on how much solar you have, your fridge compressor cycling on,  could drag the voltage down and then the solar can't maintain 14.2v, and the Iota will not make just enough amperage to maintain 14.2, and wont until the 12.8v trigger voltage is reached.

Obviously if plugged in continuously, there is no need for the solar.  When I plug in for days, I set my meanwell voltage just below the float voltage of my solar controller.  That way no solar wattage goes to waste and it takes some, or ALL the load off the grid/meanwell during daylight hours.

My solar controller will bring the battery to 14.7v in the morning and once the amps required to maintain that voltage taper to 0.5, it drops to float.  When full my existing AGM needs only 0.2 amps or less to achieve 14.7v so this happens soon after sunup.  I think your solar controller brings the battery to its absorption voltage for 2 hours each day no matter what.  If plugged in continuously your solar can then overcharge the battery,  for 2 hours each day.

Beware of this.


So Even an Automatic charger, still requires manual control in some scenarios.  It requires the person charging the battery be aware of what might be happening.  Overcharging is not just using more water, the positive plate sheds.  Some overcharge, with lead acid, is no big deal, overcharging 2 hours every day will lead to short battery lifespans even if they never are allowed to get low on water.

One possible consideration, is putting Anderson SB connector for 2awg cable inline on the DC output. Have one Sb connector to snap into your 12v system and another connector that connects to some jumper cables.  Then you have an extremely capable portable 55 amp charger that will outperform the massive wheeled chargers of yesteryear.

The Iota can be hooked directly to loads. You expressed interest in not having the battery in the loop, you can use the Andewrson SB connectors and disconnect the battery when it is full and the Iota will continue to power the  DC loads. while the fully charged battery just sits there full with no loads on it.

My 100 amp powermax has dual 8 AWG dual 45 amp Anderson powerpoles.  They don't seem to mind 50 amps each. but I'd like a big fat 300 amp connector for 2awg cables on the output as well.  My powermax has a carry handle on it too.  I'd not want much stress on such thick heavy wires, weakening the output lugs solder connection on the circuit board.


The picture of the X model, shows that the fan is exhausting the casing.  Make sure those intake ports  on the unit opposite the fan, are not obstructed or sucking hot air, or battery charging fumes.

The exhausting orientation makes it easy to remove finger grille, peel up sticker slightly where wires enter, take a small flat tool and smush some Amazing goop over where the wires are soldered to circuit board or use some clear nailpolish and gravity is your friend,  as are multiple coats.

When it arrives post the make and model number of the fan....por favor.  Lets see if it is a dual ball bearing, or just a sleeve bearing cheap ass fan easily replaced with a far superior quieter more reliable version.

When it is making a constant 55 amps, in bulk, it will be an effective heater too, well not really, but you will be surprised at how much hot air actually comes out.  Keep that in mind when deciding where to mount it too.  The cooler you can keep it, the longer it will last.  Its single fan can be oriented to exhaust the entire enclosure into which it is installed, but again, beware of battery fumes finding the Iota's intake.  The fan can also be turned around to force air into the unit.  if the fan is then sucking air from outside its enclosure, it can't suck up battery fumes.  

My 100a adjustable powermax in my Dusty workshop, has air filter socks to prevent pushing tons of dust through the unit. I vaccuum them regularly. and will replace them every so often when the vaccuum seems to leave to much dust behind

Your Iota should treat you well, especially if you treat it well, by not allowing it to get too hot, too often.

[Blacktank]

an actual nice fast converter/charger will cost $600+ so concessions will be made under that

my thinking,fire up a honda2000 first thing in the morn,hope the lota does give 14.8 at somewhere around 55 amps,get that 80% and then let solar take over for the finish

the converter and solar have opposite bulk/absorption voltages,converter 14.8 bulk/14.1 absorption,solar low 13-14v bulk,14.7-14.8 absorption so if you do the dance you should be able to get charged up

if you are perma parked with grid available just unplug the charge control and run everything from the converter,no battery needed