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Generic Van Life solar install
#1
Pretty simple solar install with pictures and diagrams.  First I've heard of the CTEK but I'm not shopping or researching solar right now.  Might have used shrink tube instead of electrical tape on the connectors but you use what you have.  I like this.

http://www.genericvan.life/2018/04/30/co...nder-1000/
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#2
Not very impressed with solar, had it in the past, but MUCH happier just charging while driving and parking in the shade.
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#3
Sounds like a nice system but I've never been a fan of dual purpose units. I have both solar and continuous solenoid systems and when one goes bad there is still the other for backup. I'm assuming that when the ctek controller goes bad, you are without either charging system.

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Just my $.02 or $.0156 Canadian
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#4
You'd still have your alternator charging your starting battery but as far as the rest of the system I have no idea. Waiting on some of the more solar knowledgeable folks to comment about it.
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#5
I think there is a smsber with the Ctek with smartpass.

The issue with alternator charging is the voltage allowed by the vehicle's voltage regulator. Often it is too low far adequate charging of a depleted house battery.

trhe Ctek takes whatever voltage the vehicle allows and boosts it to a higher voltage so the house battery can recharge faster and more completely.

This is basically a DC to DC converter, which is what a solar MPPT controller is also doing. SO one can hook solar panels to this same unit and get the three stage charging from solar or the from the vehicle.

The smartpass feature is for when the vehicle can actually produce more amperage at high enough voltage that no DC to DC conversion is required, and in theory more amps can flow.

I would much prefer separate Solar charge controller.

Influencing the voltage that the vehicle allows is not easy, and on some vehicles impossible, so these DC to DC converters have their place, as a battery will accept 50% to 70% more amperage at 14.7 as opposed to 13.7, and most vehicles will revert to 13.7 pretty quickly.

I have modified my 89 b250 so i can choose any voltage I want when the engine is running, and have ~108 amps available at 2000+ engine rpm, subtracting loads like headlights or blower motor, to charge the battery, but if I could not influence the vehicle voltage and really needed the alternator to be effective, i I would look into these DC to DC converters which take whatever voltage the vehicle allows and optimize it for battery charging, though most are limited to a certain maximum amperage.
[-] The following 3 users say Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (08-23-2018), Motrukdriver (08-23-2018), frater secessus (09-19-2018)
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#6
Could you just run alternator output to a MPPT?
Sometimes dweller in 237k miles '07 Grand C-van w/ a solar powered fridge and not much else
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#7
In theory yes,, however the MPPt would need to be able to handle the max output amperage of the alternator, or close to it.

A depleted battery can suck up huge amperages, if only briefly. Could easily be enough for a magic smoke release party, and MPPT controllers are not cheap
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#8
The CTEK idea is neat; if it had configuratble setpoints it would have claimed more of my attention. I stuck with separate (configurable) MPPT controller and a Battery Doctor voltage-sensing alternator relay.
frater/jason - FT 2018.  Retired/boondocking  Jan 2020
159"Promaster , 750w : 280Ah LFP , 35gal fresh
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