Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
solar panel
might of found something near me say 37-47? volts,emailed them about dimensions

would a standard mppt controller work? any red flags?
"not of the body"
As long as the controller can handle the 47 volts open circuit, you are good to go. I've only known a few that couldn't.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to justjim for this post:
  • Blacktank (05-21-2021)
Ebay has a bunch cheap with free delicery.
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." - Thomas Jefferson
measured in at 78.5 inches and i had a max of 80 so bought it,qcells out of germany,made in south korea,poly panel

company that was fitting out new sprinter like vans with mobile hand surgery on the side,had about 1/2 pallet of sale

so who has about 6 foot of cable with h4's on the end?

any recommendations on a mppt controller not dirt cheap with display and the ability to set some parameters?

i'm a little wire,controller and battery upgrade from being golden on electricity, super stoked ,rewarded myself with a fried baloney and egg sandwich
"not of the body"
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to Blacktank for this post:
  • rvpopeye (05-21-2021), American Nomad Patriot (05-22-2021)
i thought i knew then the interweb elctro geniuses got me confused

345 watts,max volts 47,9.6 amps,so a 20 amp controller should do me or do things change and should get a 30 or 40 amp,not going to add to the system

best i could do for panel to controller wire was 15' 8 awg extension for $31 delivered
8 z bracket incoming

charge controllers getting over analyzed

the world is trying to force me to get a smart phone but i keep fighting the good fight
"not of the body"
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Blacktank for this post:
  • American Nomad Patriot (05-22-2021)
thats enough at looking at these stupid boxes,of coarse i didnt like anything #1 reason,those stupid size 6 Philips head screw clamp for the wires,they suck,give me a stud,#2 the better controllers all seam to be reliant on a smart phone to operate,i dont want a gadget that needs other gadget to work

came down to epever 40 amp giant aluminum thing that you had to buy all the accessories for just over $200

and rich solar 40 amp $135 at least comes with temp sensor

the epever is the better unit so i went with the rich solar,more plug n play and cheaper

now i have to let the bank account catch up and see if i have enough for controller to battery wire and lugs
"not of the body"
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Blacktank for this post:
  • American Nomad Patriot (05-22-2021)
for some reason i'm thinking i need a breaker in-between the panel and controller yes/no?

the best i can find are these the others look cheap,this one is made to fit in a breaker box,sure i could mod something up to get it on the wall,any other options?
"not of the body"
I have a Rich Solar 40A in use with 4 100W panels in serial pairs, 40V @ 10A. No problems.

The Rich Solar 40 amp is, to the eye, the same as a Renogy Rover 40 amp unit, except that the menu scroll keys are flipped, and the keys are orange instead of blue. Down to advance with the Rich, and up to advance with the Renogy. I figure the menu software was maybe copyrighted by Renogy, therefore Rich had to make a change to differentiate. Otherwise the physical appearance, except for the cosmetic color changes, is the same. Built by the same Chinese factory on the same line?

The Epever Tracer 40A is a heavy unit. Maybe it's better for heat transfer. Requires that extra module for display and programming. Again, Renogy had sold the same unit as the Commander. Like Buicks and Chevys rolling off the same line?
Chinese manufactures making small changes per company,watched a will prowse comparison vid and he noted the rich solar had larger and stronger wire clamps than the renogy but other wise the same

watched an aussie comparison vid and the renogy was reading voltage 1.5 volt off just like mine does,wonder if renogy has a volt reading issue across their products
"not of the body"
The Rich Solar is connected to a separate bank and reads the same on the display as my VOM.
The Renogy's display is off by -0.2V from the VOM.
Both were measured on the unit's posts directly.

My Whynter fridge display reads the same as the Renogy, but there is a small difference in distance from the bank to the fridge compared to the controller to the bank. Happens to be the same voltage loss as the Renogy's display discrepancy.

Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)