Blue seas 6007M 1/2/BOTH/OFF Switch Warning

[Blacktank]

got the replacement,works fine,no screws on these,snap on cover? will give a try to pry it apart when i'm in the mood for some destruction

[sternwake]

I found the 6007m switch that I rebuilt, had developed a dead spot when switching from BOTH, to battery one. This was resetting my battery monitor when it would remove power to the solar controller which powers the monitor and was the only reason I noticed the failure.

I opened it back up to inspect and re repair.

3 hypothesis as to failure.

When i was last inside this switch, the one thick copper plate that rotates with knob has three dimples, which touch the plates to which the 3/8-16 studs are affixed. It was losing contact when the third dimple was riding over a plastic separator. I had slightly flattened these dimples to increase the surface area that a potential 350 amps (max rated capacity of this switch), which then caused the plate's dimples to lose contact when turning. This seems unlikely given the rather extreme spring pressure, but the connection was lost and it was somehow happening that 2 of the 3 dimples, were at one point in the rotation, leaving the surface.

It is also possible that the plastic separator that these dimples ride over, swelled, from the use of Caig Deoxit S5 shield, which I have observed to swell the accordian type of weather proof boots on OEM dodge connectors previously.

It is also possible that my previous, and highly regretted and embarrassing employment of 4 gauge aluminum wiring and the worlds shittiest and thinnest ring terminals on this switch, caused excessive heating when i was passing the 100 amps of Powermax power supply through this switch, and caused the hot copper to compress the surrounding plastic, bulging the plastic separators that the dimples have to ride over and causing the breaking of the circuit when rotating the switch.

The potential excessive heating and swelling from Shield S5 could be a combo factor.

Anyway the solution, hopefully permanent, was to remove the plastic bulge between stud plates that the flattened dimple has to ride over.

I have three of these 6007m switches. Only 2 of them have I unscrewed from the wall leading to their explosion, the third I have not yet touched. When I do, perhaps I can better understand why the Solar switch developed this dead spot when the plates dimples moved with the knob.

This third switch, while passing just as much current and more, more often, than the Solar/ charge switch, has the same highly regretted and embarrassing shitty thin ring terminals and 4 gauge aluminum cable but Also fatter copper ring terminals which can better remove any heat build up of the contact points/ dimple mating surfaces themselves.

I'll update to when I do unscrew this third switch from the wall, which I will not do until I have all new sufficient gauge cabling and terminations to do the job correctly. I need to better estimate the total length needed and for GenuineDealz to have both the red and black 1/0 cable in stock, or perhaps 1/0 and 1 awg, depending on the bank account at that time.

Perhaps I should get Blue Seas to send me 3 new switches, as even though I definitely contributed to their initial failure and secondary failure of the one, it is a shitty design that 4 plastic studs were all that was compressing a very stout spring, and were doomed to failure.

[Blacktank]

they sent me a new one no questions asked,lifetime warrenty

so i popped my bad one open,wedges in the center of each side,i could not see what was wrong,it would lose connection position1 and you could wiggle the knob to loss connection,maybe the inner triangle connection was not seated right,will stretch the spring out a hair and reassemble