electrical issue/outlets/refrigerator??

[Kyz]

OK, I have an electrical issue. 

Is it possible that my refrigerator and 2 of my outlets are on the same breaker? (Refrigerator, bunkhouse outlet, and the outlet on the outside wall of the bunkhouse area are all pretty close together.)

I stayed in Louisiana during and after the hurricane because I didn't want to leave them (they refused to leave). (No major damage.) Of course the aftermath was no electricity for 11 days. During most of that time, I ran my generator when I could, charging as many devices for everyone as I could. The two outlets giving me problems were used pretty heavily. Now they won't work at all. I can flip the breaker switch (which doesn't feel spongy/half way off/tripped at all) and get power to the outlets (power strip light comes on), but the second I plug anything into it, power is gone again. 

I've tried everything I know to do (except checking for blown fuses). Help? Suggestions? (In very simple terms....I can ask my dad for help understanding things, but he's in his 70's and I hope to be able to fix things myself....anything too complicated and I'm going to need to hire help/maybe ask my BIL.) 

THanks.

[justjim]

If there is a outside outlet on the line it likely has a GFI somewhere on the circuit. There will be TEST and RESET buttons on one of the outlets or the circuit breaker.

Something could be instantly throwing the circuit breaker. Try taking the fridge off of auto and unplugging everything else. Then plug things back in one at a time to see if anything is causing it either by being shorted or just too big of a load.

Try plugging those items into a different set of outlets including the fridge using a extension cord. Should anything be bad it will trip that circuit breaker too.

Circuit breakers can get old and will trip with less of a load than they should carry. It may need to be replaced.

[tx2sturgis]

Yes, probably GFI outlet has tripped.

If it still keeps tripping after a reset, you may have another issue somewhere.

[rvpopeye]

They wear out too, especially outdoors .
Check for loose connections too.

[Kyz]

I turned off refrigerator and tried plugging something else in, but nothing. I used a multimeter to test the outlets. The 120v light was lighting up with no problems, but plugging in something small (tried TV then a fan in case it was the TV), nothing happened. I plugged the multimeter back in and it blinked for a second before lighting up again perfectly. That was without flipping the breaker or touching anything else. Best I can tell the only test/reset buttons I have is on the outlet in the bathroom. I checked the outlet the refrigerator is plugged into also.

I haven't checked the fuses yet. I have a fuse set on order that is supposed to be here Thursday in case I need to replace any fuses (plus I really need the tool to remove the fuses because I have difficulty pulling the fuses without something to help).

[justjim]

sounds like a loose connection to me

[sternwake]

I bet if you remove that problematic outlet you will find a loose wire. In stick and brick they have outlets where the stripped wire is simply inserted into a hole, or it can be bent in a U shape and put under a screw. I've never trusted the hole but seen some pretty poorly U shaped wire partially compressed under half the screw's head that was fingernail tight.

You might even be able to put your nose near the errant outlet and smell something off , Ozone or hot plastic or hot metal, shortly after it trips.

Generally your ATC/ATO blade fuses are for the rigs 12 volt dc systems only so replacing them is not likely to do anything for your 120Vac issues.

You can easily test fuses while they are in place. Set multimeter to ohms. if it reads the same as when you touch the leads together as when they are on opposite ends of the fuse, it is likely fine. ATC/ATO fuses have little recessed prob points on their backside for this reason, and if they are glass fuses you can touch the metal endcaps with the probes. Either fuse holder can oxidize and lose contact with teh fuse tang/cap too though but this test/fix is usually removal and reinsertion.

I've had my Dodge's stock glass fuse holders oxidize so badly I had to spend some serious time with a Q-tip wrapped in fine sandpaper and and Caig deoxit d5 to get it reliable and not heat excessively passing half its rated amperage.

[GotSmart]

Pull and visually check every outlet.

[tx2sturgis]

A GFI outlet with TEST and RESET buttons (and sometimes an LED light) can be wired by the factory to also protect other outlets.

It is common for the GFI outlet to be in the bathroom or kitchen, and the outside outlet is wired to (and protected by) that GFI outlet.

In other words, in simple terms, the outside outlet might have an appliance plugged in that gets rained on or for whatever reason develops a 'ground fault' and it might trip the GFI outlet in the kitchen or bathroom.

[Kyz]

I only have 1 GFCI outlet with the test and reset buttons (in the bathroom). I do have several other outlets labeled GFI (with a sticker) that do not have a test and reset button. I have checked both of the nonworking outlets (which are both labeled GFI). The one easiest to get to looks fine and snaps back in place easily. The other one, however, is not fine. The ground wire was loose/not laying in place and the box was not snapped on fully and is warped so that I can not snap it on correctly. So I will be replacing that one for sure. They are both black and I would like to replace them with black outlets. Looking on Amazon they only have white immediately available. Any other recommended places to buy? I could probably go to a local RV type store tomorrow. I think I could use the outing! Recommendations?