08-09-2020, 12:20 AM
The cheapo inline RGB controllers get warm, when the RGBS are off.
I am going to rewire them so the rocker switch cuts power to them as well as the WW leds, at some point.
The parasitic draw is somewhere under 0.015 amps.
Hard for me to measure down this low accurately, I just don;t like feeling for the dongle and finding it warm.
The 3 foot wand is now being fed from my main light switch center, the output voltage variable. When using the RBG controller, it still works fine. If I have the RGB set to white, and lower voltage dial, first the blue LED shuts off, them the green,. then the red alone The red alone then dims towards tiny pinpricks.
I made a 5 foot LED wand, filling it only with WW leds, 3 rows on the bottom of the channel, not the sides. Set the rocker switch and potentiometer up a bit differently, both face the same direction as the light output instead of the back side.
I've not taken any lux readings for comparison, but its basically got as many WW leds as the 8 foot wand does, just stuffed into 3 foot less space.
The wands need some better methods to hold them in position in the van and workshop. Eyelets S hooks velcro some or all depending. It's a ridiculous amount of light for in the van, or even outside of it, but they are easy to store up high, and are lightweight.
I've still got about 1 foot of WW strips and about 18 inches of the closer spaced rgb strip.
The WW strip might get hardened and exposed to the elements as an experiment. My license plate lamp is an ancient incandescent light, and brighter than it needs to be. I don't want this lit up blue either. Nothing says pathetic more than a 30 year old vehicle with glowing blue tinted License plate lighting up the road under the vehicle.
I am going to rewire them so the rocker switch cuts power to them as well as the WW leds, at some point.
The parasitic draw is somewhere under 0.015 amps.
Hard for me to measure down this low accurately, I just don;t like feeling for the dongle and finding it warm.
The 3 foot wand is now being fed from my main light switch center, the output voltage variable. When using the RBG controller, it still works fine. If I have the RGB set to white, and lower voltage dial, first the blue LED shuts off, them the green,. then the red alone The red alone then dims towards tiny pinpricks.
I made a 5 foot LED wand, filling it only with WW leds, 3 rows on the bottom of the channel, not the sides. Set the rocker switch and potentiometer up a bit differently, both face the same direction as the light output instead of the back side.
I've not taken any lux readings for comparison, but its basically got as many WW leds as the 8 foot wand does, just stuffed into 3 foot less space.
The wands need some better methods to hold them in position in the van and workshop. Eyelets S hooks velcro some or all depending. It's a ridiculous amount of light for in the van, or even outside of it, but they are easy to store up high, and are lightweight.
I've still got about 1 foot of WW strips and about 18 inches of the closer spaced rgb strip.
The WW strip might get hardened and exposed to the elements as an experiment. My license plate lamp is an ancient incandescent light, and brighter than it needs to be. I don't want this lit up blue either. Nothing says pathetic more than a 30 year old vehicle with glowing blue tinted License plate lighting up the road under the vehicle.


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