Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Transmission life optimizers?
#21
You have been driving long enough to not need a tach. 

Use the Braille method and shift when you feel it is time to do it.
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to GotSmart for this post:
  • heron (09-24-2020)
Reply
#22
My level of paranoia when it comes to the transmission on this thing probably couldn't get any higher. Cry angry Tongue
Two gloriously stinkin' badges.
Official YARC ship’s navigator.
Reply
#23
One more thing, Stern? Since I don't know what's in there for fluid, should I get a flush so I can put all new good stuff in there?
Two gloriously stinkin' badges.
Official YARC ship’s navigator.
Reply
#24
IMO
Use your ears.
You have heard the sounds the thing makes.
It's the new ones that get ya.

Flush bad ju ju .
stay tuned 
popeye


 Weirdo Overlord : FMS Fleet Ops , Awards , Badges ,  aka Tamerlane the Impaler Mod.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to rvpopeye for this post:
  • heron (09-18-2020)
Reply
#25
(05-18-2020, 04:33 AM)rvpopeye Wrote: IMO
Use your ears.
You have heard the sounds the thing makes.
It's the new ones that get ya.

Flush bad ju ju .

But if flush isn't the thing, and I have Dexron in there, and draining gets me maybe 5+ quarts outta there, that leaves eight still in there. Huh Undecided
Two gloriously stinkin' badges.
Official YARC ship’s navigator.
Reply
#26
Dont flush. Pan drop filter change Drainplug add.. regularly drain.and replace 4 to 5 quarts thereafter. Get a transmission funnel. Keep it kleen.
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • heron (05-18-2020), Gapper2 (09-23-2020)
Reply
#27
Hey, Stern! This is the cooler that seems to be recommended for the A-500. What think you? Also, there's an inline filter recommended to go with it. Do you think that one would be good if getting a good one like you have seems to be not something I can do at this moment? Also, transmission pans online, I can't tell if the drain is welded or not. Thought to get a plain one and have a drain welded on?
Two gloriously stinkin' badges.
Official YARC ship’s navigator.
Reply
#28
I don't see a product link to a cooler or the inline filter that comes with it.

Do you need a new transmission pan?

My drainplug is welded to the original pan, by someone who had way more welding skills than myself, Apparently it can be easy to mess this up.

If one just drills and adds the drainplug there is a Nut on the inside of the pan about 3/8 inches tall, leaving 3/8 inches of fluid in there and any gunk like band material will not flow out.

I've not researched pans which fit the A-500. Without experience with any specific product, I can only offer a guess with Asterixes and caveats and 'sign this release' type of confidence.

Remember that how you drive plays a huge part in transmission temperature, and if it runs too hot for too long the fluid breaks down, and the damage only really starts occuring once the fluid has broken down.

While I have a bunch of thermocouples available to attach to various things within a certain distance, I have no data on when and where my transmission gets the hottest.

All I can say is I've got 100K on an Aamco rebuild now and am considering acquiring 4 more quarts of ATF+4 soon, perhaps a bottle of Lubegard Red bottle which appears to be one of the few widely respected additives that is supposed to help Tx stay cooler.

I've used it in the last 100K miles, though not for the last 2 perhaps 3 drain and fills.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • heron (09-24-2020)
Reply
#29
I used the drain through the pan with nut on the inside on my 727 trans. It allowed me to drain the pan sufficiently to drop the pan to replace the filter without spilling trans fluid everywhere. Cleaned the pan while it was off. I will admit this was my second transmission as I didn't take car of the first well (young and dumb). I also remove the accumulator spring which firmed up the shifts a lot when I put the drain in. I figured out it was making the clutches slip which would wear them out faster. A lot less crud in the pan after that.

If you are going to replace the fluid, you should also replace the filter which requires the pan to be dropped.
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to B and C for this post:
  • heron (09-24-2020)
Reply
#30
I agree that a long overdue fluid swap needs a pan drop, pan cleaning and filter change an a drainplug 's internal 3/8 tall nut is of no consequence.

However if one is wanting to get dilute older fluid with new, after a pan drop/filterchange which only gets perhaps 1/3 the total volume , then the 3/8inch nut inside is defeating draining as much fluid as possible, and allowing the draining process to help remove some portion of debris on the bottom of the pan.

I'm not gonna drop my pan for a while, but I will overnight drain it, and refill with fresh ATF+4.

The in pan filter is more a rock catcher.

The inline filters filter much smaller particles that have been picked up and pumped to the cooler.

I'm kind of interested to see the inside of my external spin on filter, but not so much so I am actually going to do so.

The A-500 needs to be babied, the OD unit is a weak link, they hate fluids other than ATF+4, and a pan with no internal nut on the drainplug makes it far easier to refresh as much fluid each time that drainplug is removed.

But dropping the pan for each ~4 quarts of refreshing fluid is a waste, adn the filter is not going to need replacing if it was just done a thousand miles prior. and 3.5 quarts draining rather than 4 is not really a big deal, but I'd rather have 4 drain out, when warm, and take any pan debris they can with it.

If you can find a skilled welder to add a flush to interior drainplug, it can only assist in the ease of refreshing as much fluid as possible. I can't imagine having to drop the pan each time, I'd likely leave old fluid in far too long, and perhaps might not have reached 100K miles on the Aamco rebuild.

First time I dropped the drainplugless pan, I had the drainplug welded on, and I've done several simple drain and fills, and a drains and pan drops and refills.

Inspecting the bottom of the catch pan can be informative, but if there is the 3/8" nut on the inside, it will not be.

The possibility of sucking old fluid out the dipstick tube is not appetizing for me. I'd rather let warm to hot fluid drain as fast as possible taking as much potential shavings/ band material/particles with it as it can. I might be refreshing my fluid far more often than is needed. So be it. This TX is weak, the causes of weakness known, the cure is too. Fresh proper fluid kept cool.

Flush fitting interior drainplug assists keeping fluid fresh, but requires welding, not just drilling a hole and tightening two nuts against each other, though the latter is better than no drainplug.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • heron (09-24-2020)
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)