I am board, today

[Mr.LooRead]

Rain curtailed outside activities so new larger improved bored with dual solar controllers and coaxial splitter to be able to use outside magnetic mount antenna with digital portable am/fm/sw radio.    

[Texjbird]

 WELL I WUZ GONNA ASK YOU "WHAT KINDA BOARD ARE YOU"....I SEE U R AN ELECTRIFIED BOARD

JEWELLANN

[rvpopeye]

I'm an old wire head so anything looking like that has my attention.
Have a schematic???

I have some experience with many types of electrified boards.
My fave is a strat. Les called 'em electric logs. (I'm not sure that is what TJB is referring to though.)

That control panel board reminds me of something I've seen before , a pedal board for the above mentioned electrified board .


Writing board is getting boring so I gonna unplug now.........hmmmmzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....

[Mr.LooRead]

    Installed board today, TV is 19" 12volt to give a perspective on how small of a space one has to work within a TC.

Take notice of the 2 remote control holders to the right (one is for remotes and the other holds smartphones while on charge). 

The bottom controller is a 20a feed by the two roof rack mounted 50-watt Renogy polys. The top controller is a 10a and was included in a 50-watt Renogy kit.

 Take notice of the quick disconnect that leads to 50 foot of 12 gauge wire to two 30 watt ground mounts with multi-angle brackets Accupower monos. I am going to use the load side of the 10a controller to control a 10watt led motion detector outdoor floodlight mounted on the roof rack.

[sternwake]

Ciggy plugs and 12v SAE connectors too!!!??!

For shame Loo, for shame.

Just kidding.
I still employ both these marginal electrical connectors, just not on anything important or those which can draw more than 22 watts.

The 12v sae plugs do wear out and waste watts as heat. I employed them widely before realizing they were inadequate for long term use plugging and unplugging. I used to have the 10AWg plugs on a 25 amp charger and the plastic surrounding the barrell connectors would get stinky plastic hot passing 20 amps. It is also too easy to reverse polarity on SAE connectors when one employs them as both input and output in their system, particularly dangerous if others get near them.

The upper solar controller with red and white sticker, I have one whose casing appears to be the same shape, and it is basically a single stage controller that seeks and hold a single voltage and has the absolute worst user interface of any electronic device i have ever had the displeasure of attempting to use. Mine has USB outlets, and I was employing these, but once I was trying to charge my phone at 0.98 amps and my headlamp at 0.68 amps, it could not handle this and was turning on and off.

I basically just use that controller as a portable, set to 14.7v. Once. The wire set screws all stripped after one go, and I had to use larger screws.

Solar controllers are electrically noisy devils. Especially once they get battery to absorbion voltage when the PWM switching becomes audible with an ear placed closely to the unit. You will likely find that the nearby Coaxial cables pick up all that noise, and destroy your reception of radio TV and SW signals in a certain frequency. Even quality Quad shield RG-6 Co-axial cable cannot shield this electrical noise.

You might try some snap on ferrite chokes on the input and output of the solar controllers, but these are of limited effectiveness.

https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack...B015RDPNTW

These snap on ferrite chokes can be pilfered from old electronic's power cords, but some will be solid require cutting the cord and inserting new wires through them.

I tried putting one snap on unit on the output of my Shumacher 'smart' charger as my Wattmeters were jumping around wildly on its output, and when closing the ferrite choke on the cable while running, it started buzzing loudly in my fingers which was quite startling. It had no effect on the wattmeter and i left it off rather than listen to the annoying buzz.

[Mr.LooRead]

Agreed the top controller is pure crap but it still works. Since the SAE disconnects are handling a max of 3.5a I think I will not have a heating/melting issue.