03-24-2023, 08:22 PM
Adjusting to the Ridgid drill and driver's triggers is taking a bit longer than expected.
If the drill has been sitting without use for a while, there is a noticeable delay before any response, even a quick full trigger pull, but then subsequent pulls immediately after, have just the dead spot/soft start on the first section of movement then respond more like I anticipate.
with less practive than anticipated, The 1/4" impact driver trigger is allowing a unexpected precision of torque. It's got so much torque available, it can pretty much just jam nearly any screw until either the bit holder bottoms out,or the screw's threads just strip the wood, or the screw shears off in the concrete.
but When trying to just cinch a screw down lightly, as one would use a hand screwdriver, that is easily possible too. More precise than The makitas and Craftsman drills which I am now unlearning.
I cant seem, yet, to accomplish the same precision with the drill, at least not on speed 2, and if switching to speed one, no chance, yet. At least I can set the torque clutch extra light and just increase it as needed, but it too if just cranked up can just sink the screw or strip it, or break it or both. I cant remember how powerful the makitas werewhen new, with new full batteries, but these Ridgid's have power to spare, even with the small 2.0 Ah provided batteries.
One thing I hate is the noise of an impact driver when it is quiet outside, and my old Makita at night, was disturbing, so i'd use the drill, but the ridgid I can use the impact and prevent the impact hammer, with just the trigger, driving most screws...
I hope to become used to the drill's trigger soon, and not have to rely on the clutch to prevent stripping.
It's a bit like getting used to a new clutch in a 5 speed manual vehicle, behind a rebuilt motor. Different power curve, different engagement of that power. cutting the wheel and letting off the clutch and mashing the pedal, its either slip the clutch or spin out, instead of a power drift out of the turn.
I'll get it. but its taking some practice.
I can see why the Ridgid angle grinder got some bad reviews regarding battery usage. Some also claimed it just shut off when loaded hard with the smaller 2.0Ah battery under hard load. It is a power hog, and when loading the cutoff wheel, or grinding disk, or flap sander, it does not really slow down with increased load, like I expect from using corded 4.5 inch angle grinders.
I've not yet had any issues with loading it so hard it shut off even with smaller battery, like some of the reviewers claim, but perhaps I have mechanical empathy that they dont.
I really tried to keep the guard on, but am so used to the freedom without it, had to take it off today, which was easy peasy as its got a toolless push lever rotate function, rotate it till the arrows align and then pull straight up and off it comes.
Back when i used to make production surfboards, after sanding the last 'hotcoat' of Polyester resin to 220 grit, we'd use a sponge to apply some concrete sealer evenly in two coats, then once those dried, use a red scotch brite pad to reduce the rubbery feeling and even out the 'luster'.
Today I ran into that, or a similar product, on some actual Concrete, to which i am intending epoxy to bond strongly.
A new razor blade in a Lisle holder, with lots of pressure, would lift the sealer in a thin brittle film, for about 4 inches, then become nearly useless. flip blade over for 2 more inches than useless.
After the 6th razor blade, and doing the math,I decided to use the grinder with cutoff wheel in left hand and vacuum in right hand to collect as much dust as I could for removal of a majority of the remainder.
I expect epoxy would bond fairly well to the ancient concrete sealer, but how strong is the bond of the sealer to the concrete below? if that bond fails....Shitshow tool throwing curse fest, so off comes the concrete sealer.
I guess I am trying to rationalize the purchase of the angle grinder, when I wanted the larger of 2 'jobsite blowers' that Ridgid offers, but screwed up the timing regarding 2 4.0 Ah batteries.
I have drained a 2Ah and a 4Ah battery to 1 of 4 bars in the grinder so far. The cord would have been a PITA in the tasks in which I did so. i did not drain batteries until they shut themselves off, hoping to avoid that depletion below ~15% level was kind of surprised to find just 1 bar and 17.71v when I checked and replaced battery.
While my corded grinder I never really needed the arbor tool to lock down the arbor tightly enough upon the abrasive disc, the Ridgid has a 'toolless' arbor, whose design and function I do like. Kind of like a half moon lever that flips up and one can use their fingers to tighten, flip down once done. I wonder if they sell that 5/8 locking arbor piece separately. I'd get one for my corded grinder if reasonably priced.
I'd like to be able to dial the grinder's speed. Oh well.
But full speed and less pressure can teach a new skill, and refine older ones.
The Ridgid user's manual recommends against using it with thin cutoff wheels, seemingly as they are prone to breakage and failure with centrifugally thrown shrapnel lawyer wet dream stuff.
The AG has no issues locking down upon a thin cut off wheel, and when pushing hard on it to cut off a stripped portion of a 8mm Allen key, it barely slowed. My cheapo corded angle grinder would have easily slowed from its 11K max likely to well below the 9K rpm max of the Ridgid under the same load. So while Max unloaded RPM might be a selling point, RPM maintained under load is a more pertinent measure of performance, perhaps dismissed by those with no experience.
.......
The 4 OK 18650's i pulled from the 18v Ryobi failed battery are performing OK, but with a wider mAH delivered than the initial test. I've been using them either to charge my phone in a thrunite C2 single 18650 powerbank, or powering my small Bluetooth speaker that i modified with an external 18650 holder, when its provided internal 18650 battery became useless.
I have plenty of older higher capacity 18650 batteries, but a big bass note at higher volumes, with the battery at ~60%, can shut off the speaker with these batteries, but the Ryobi salvaged batteries will have the low battery audible signal come on several times before it just shuts off completely. So basically the less capacity higher continuous amp rated older batteries, at higher volumes, work better inside the speaker. Lesser volumes and the higher capacity batteries go for longer without issue.
Powering the thrunight c-2 to charge the phone its kind of a wash. The mAH delivered from the higher capacity batteries is slightly higher, but the higher amp lower capacity batteries can provide the 1.56 amps for longer and charge the phones low battery to a higher level faster, but give out at about 800Mah, where as the old Panasonics ncr 18650B deliver about 1150, but drop from 1.56 amps to 0.89a, and less, faster.
Either way, I've plenty of 18650s to charge a dead phone, and play music all day, and the Ryobi salvaged batteries are delivering, and the 5S 18650 holder from the failed Ryobi pack, is very convenient for cell storage and organization and employment.
There is a failed 'dustbuster' my dad was going to throw out for the failed lithium battery within.Well i suspec they are lithuim. it came with a cradle, which when the unit was returned, brought it back to and kept it at 100%. great for lead acid batteries, not so much for lithium.
I think I might do some experimenting with its battery pack, as he bought a replacement dustbuster which is not so impressive, but is convenient as heck. I have soldered wire to batteries before, but spot welding tabs is stronger and safer and a tool and skill I want.
I still intend to measure voltage into the Ridgid battery charger from its included 18v, 60 watt wall wart, when charging. I can't easily see any tamper proof warranty nullifying screws/devices, but will perhaps nullify warranty anyway on one unit, for curiosity either way, when the round tuit slaps me upside the head. I wonder if the less than 21v cutoff voltage is because of the powersupply's limit. I'd love to just use my DC to DC 150 watt converter set to 21v( or 20.37v), for when I return to living in the Van, rather than an inverter powering the '18v, 60 watt' wall wart.
As long as the 'to do' list was for my now neglected van, which I've not even seen for 5 weeks now, the list for the parent's home is equally long.
i cant believe how bad some of the HVAC ducting work is. Seems like less than 80% of what reached an output vent was designed to actually exit the vent into the room, and the return vents could easily suck air from behind the drywall/ inside the hot attic, instead of the room space they were designed to exhaust.
Intolerably wasteful.
I'm hoping to reduce the Electric bill/KWH used, even though my presence adds to the electrical load.
If the drill has been sitting without use for a while, there is a noticeable delay before any response, even a quick full trigger pull, but then subsequent pulls immediately after, have just the dead spot/soft start on the first section of movement then respond more like I anticipate.
with less practive than anticipated, The 1/4" impact driver trigger is allowing a unexpected precision of torque. It's got so much torque available, it can pretty much just jam nearly any screw until either the bit holder bottoms out,or the screw's threads just strip the wood, or the screw shears off in the concrete.
but When trying to just cinch a screw down lightly, as one would use a hand screwdriver, that is easily possible too. More precise than The makitas and Craftsman drills which I am now unlearning.
I cant seem, yet, to accomplish the same precision with the drill, at least not on speed 2, and if switching to speed one, no chance, yet. At least I can set the torque clutch extra light and just increase it as needed, but it too if just cranked up can just sink the screw or strip it, or break it or both. I cant remember how powerful the makitas werewhen new, with new full batteries, but these Ridgid's have power to spare, even with the small 2.0 Ah provided batteries.
One thing I hate is the noise of an impact driver when it is quiet outside, and my old Makita at night, was disturbing, so i'd use the drill, but the ridgid I can use the impact and prevent the impact hammer, with just the trigger, driving most screws...
I hope to become used to the drill's trigger soon, and not have to rely on the clutch to prevent stripping.
It's a bit like getting used to a new clutch in a 5 speed manual vehicle, behind a rebuilt motor. Different power curve, different engagement of that power. cutting the wheel and letting off the clutch and mashing the pedal, its either slip the clutch or spin out, instead of a power drift out of the turn.
I'll get it. but its taking some practice.
I can see why the Ridgid angle grinder got some bad reviews regarding battery usage. Some also claimed it just shut off when loaded hard with the smaller 2.0Ah battery under hard load. It is a power hog, and when loading the cutoff wheel, or grinding disk, or flap sander, it does not really slow down with increased load, like I expect from using corded 4.5 inch angle grinders.
I've not yet had any issues with loading it so hard it shut off even with smaller battery, like some of the reviewers claim, but perhaps I have mechanical empathy that they dont.
I really tried to keep the guard on, but am so used to the freedom without it, had to take it off today, which was easy peasy as its got a toolless push lever rotate function, rotate it till the arrows align and then pull straight up and off it comes.
Back when i used to make production surfboards, after sanding the last 'hotcoat' of Polyester resin to 220 grit, we'd use a sponge to apply some concrete sealer evenly in two coats, then once those dried, use a red scotch brite pad to reduce the rubbery feeling and even out the 'luster'.
Today I ran into that, or a similar product, on some actual Concrete, to which i am intending epoxy to bond strongly.
A new razor blade in a Lisle holder, with lots of pressure, would lift the sealer in a thin brittle film, for about 4 inches, then become nearly useless. flip blade over for 2 more inches than useless.
After the 6th razor blade, and doing the math,I decided to use the grinder with cutoff wheel in left hand and vacuum in right hand to collect as much dust as I could for removal of a majority of the remainder.
I expect epoxy would bond fairly well to the ancient concrete sealer, but how strong is the bond of the sealer to the concrete below? if that bond fails....Shitshow tool throwing curse fest, so off comes the concrete sealer.
I guess I am trying to rationalize the purchase of the angle grinder, when I wanted the larger of 2 'jobsite blowers' that Ridgid offers, but screwed up the timing regarding 2 4.0 Ah batteries.
I have drained a 2Ah and a 4Ah battery to 1 of 4 bars in the grinder so far. The cord would have been a PITA in the tasks in which I did so. i did not drain batteries until they shut themselves off, hoping to avoid that depletion below ~15% level was kind of surprised to find just 1 bar and 17.71v when I checked and replaced battery.
While my corded grinder I never really needed the arbor tool to lock down the arbor tightly enough upon the abrasive disc, the Ridgid has a 'toolless' arbor, whose design and function I do like. Kind of like a half moon lever that flips up and one can use their fingers to tighten, flip down once done. I wonder if they sell that 5/8 locking arbor piece separately. I'd get one for my corded grinder if reasonably priced.
I'd like to be able to dial the grinder's speed. Oh well.
But full speed and less pressure can teach a new skill, and refine older ones.
The Ridgid user's manual recommends against using it with thin cutoff wheels, seemingly as they are prone to breakage and failure with centrifugally thrown shrapnel lawyer wet dream stuff.
The AG has no issues locking down upon a thin cut off wheel, and when pushing hard on it to cut off a stripped portion of a 8mm Allen key, it barely slowed. My cheapo corded angle grinder would have easily slowed from its 11K max likely to well below the 9K rpm max of the Ridgid under the same load. So while Max unloaded RPM might be a selling point, RPM maintained under load is a more pertinent measure of performance, perhaps dismissed by those with no experience.
.......
The 4 OK 18650's i pulled from the 18v Ryobi failed battery are performing OK, but with a wider mAH delivered than the initial test. I've been using them either to charge my phone in a thrunite C2 single 18650 powerbank, or powering my small Bluetooth speaker that i modified with an external 18650 holder, when its provided internal 18650 battery became useless.
I have plenty of older higher capacity 18650 batteries, but a big bass note at higher volumes, with the battery at ~60%, can shut off the speaker with these batteries, but the Ryobi salvaged batteries will have the low battery audible signal come on several times before it just shuts off completely. So basically the less capacity higher continuous amp rated older batteries, at higher volumes, work better inside the speaker. Lesser volumes and the higher capacity batteries go for longer without issue.
Powering the thrunight c-2 to charge the phone its kind of a wash. The mAH delivered from the higher capacity batteries is slightly higher, but the higher amp lower capacity batteries can provide the 1.56 amps for longer and charge the phones low battery to a higher level faster, but give out at about 800Mah, where as the old Panasonics ncr 18650B deliver about 1150, but drop from 1.56 amps to 0.89a, and less, faster.
Either way, I've plenty of 18650s to charge a dead phone, and play music all day, and the Ryobi salvaged batteries are delivering, and the 5S 18650 holder from the failed Ryobi pack, is very convenient for cell storage and organization and employment.
There is a failed 'dustbuster' my dad was going to throw out for the failed lithium battery within.Well i suspec they are lithuim. it came with a cradle, which when the unit was returned, brought it back to and kept it at 100%. great for lead acid batteries, not so much for lithium.
I think I might do some experimenting with its battery pack, as he bought a replacement dustbuster which is not so impressive, but is convenient as heck. I have soldered wire to batteries before, but spot welding tabs is stronger and safer and a tool and skill I want.
I still intend to measure voltage into the Ridgid battery charger from its included 18v, 60 watt wall wart, when charging. I can't easily see any tamper proof warranty nullifying screws/devices, but will perhaps nullify warranty anyway on one unit, for curiosity either way, when the round tuit slaps me upside the head. I wonder if the less than 21v cutoff voltage is because of the powersupply's limit. I'd love to just use my DC to DC 150 watt converter set to 21v( or 20.37v), for when I return to living in the Van, rather than an inverter powering the '18v, 60 watt' wall wart.
As long as the 'to do' list was for my now neglected van, which I've not even seen for 5 weeks now, the list for the parent's home is equally long.
i cant believe how bad some of the HVAC ducting work is. Seems like less than 80% of what reached an output vent was designed to actually exit the vent into the room, and the return vents could easily suck air from behind the drywall/ inside the hot attic, instead of the room space they were designed to exhaust.
Intolerably wasteful.
I'm hoping to reduce the Electric bill/KWH used, even though my presence adds to the electrical load.
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