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How to burn out your alternator while direct charging LiFePo4
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The continuous duty solenoid can have a rocker/toggle ( illuminated) switch placed inline  on the 12v ignition trigger circuit.   I always recommend this, for situations such as Gary's when the hungry battery and high output alternator can overwhelm the cold damp single v belt. If one flips this switch to on at 60mph with warm and dry belt and pulleys, will the sudden strain of a depleted battery asking for 50+ amps hurt anything?  I doubt it,  but the belt might slip or chirp or squeal.  A glazed belt from too much slipping when cold and damp should be replaced and the pulleys likely wirewheeled clean of the residue.  The condition will just get worse until this is done.

A 1/2/both/Off switch located where the driver can easily reach it, is hardly ergonomic, and turning it to off while engine is running can smoke the alternator.

Those hell bent on idling parked to recharge for more than 10 minutes are perhaps best off with a forced cold air feed tube aimed at alternator, but a large case alternator, if it fits, is certainly an upgrade. Whether large case alternators have better cooling or make less heat or both is not something I can say for sure or not, as doing so would be repeating others opinions, and I've grown despise the internet parrots.

There's way  more than one strategy to skin this particular cat.

I think readers should just be aware that idling parked to recharge a lot of depleted  battery capacity might be able to smoke their alternator, or reduce its lifespan greatly.  There's all sorts of ways to avoid overheating the alternator, and for some the ignorance is bliss and it 'works just fine' is just fine, for them, for now. Some others will have alternators which once they get too hot automatically lower the voltage and they would only overheat at that point if the loads other than the depleted battery were still a large percentage of the capacity of the alternator,  and this is likely only accomplished with additional forward lighting or a winch or a boom boom  get the fuck away from me with that crap music, stereo.

If ignorance is infuriating, then collect data with the tools and initiative to do so, and by all means share that data.

In 2004 I bought a reman lifetime warranty alternator at Kragen.  I used that warranty at least 3 times pre 2007, when I got solar, and twice since, the last being July of 2015 when Oreilly's handed me a new Wilson reman when I handed over the failing one.  Since then I have added the external adjustable voltage regulator and can work my alternator even harder if I choose to as the stock regulator in engine computer rarely asked for 14.7v+ for long.
 I can replace my alternator in 15 minutes, but on some vehicles the task is a nightmare, and the price of replacement much higher. 
Everything one can do to insure best possible alternator recharging of depleted additional batteries with engine running, puts more load on the alternator.  Its kind of foolish to try and extend the life of a 100$ battery by sacrificing a 600$ alternator.

One valid  strategy, among many, for protecting it from overheating can be to use no thicker than 8 awg cable to feed depleted house battery(s), and sacrifice some of that 'best possible recharging'

As Usual, Mainesail has a good info packed article worthy of a read by those interested in such topics.  His opinions,  on these topics, are the closest things to facts one will find on the internet.

https://marinehowto.com/automotive-alternators-vs-deep-cycle-batteries/

https://marinehowto.com/programming-a-ba...regulator/

https://marinehowto.com/marine-alternator-installation-tips-tricks/



[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • Matlock (12-01-2019), Roadtripp (12-02-2019)
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RE: How to burn out your alternator while direct charging LiFePo4 - by sternwake - 11-30-2019, 01:15 PM

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