06-04-2021, 01:39 AM
One can look online, and find Inline ATC/ATO fuse holders with 10 12 14 16 or 18 awg wires.
I've bought them, used them, and had the entire molded portion of the holder completely melt around the melted fuse, which never blew.
Usually this only occurs with 15+ amps continuous, and the better ones are more like 25 amps continuous, but one can acquire 30 35 and even 40 amp ATC/ATO fuses, and I think it is unwise to exceed 25 amps continuous with these no matter what.
One reason they are inadequate for 15-25+ amps continuous, is that the portion which clasps the fuse tangs is Brass, not copper, and Brass is generally less than 1/3rd as conductive as pure copper. It is not 3x as thick to make up for the lack of conductivity and as a result it is a heating point, as is any fuse itself.
With the premade inline molded fuse holders, one has no idea how well the quick connect contact is attached to the wire, inside the molding. I've smelled burning plastic only to find one section of the fuse holder melting and just starting to smoke, precisely at this point. I've had a complete failure of such premade inline holders with no obvious signs, requiring elimination of everything else before I figured out why there was no power reaching device.
So I now, make my own.
I like using Flag terminals, for their lower profile.
The Flag terminals are not really cheap, and are still just plated brass, at best. In the sub 30 amp range, I dont like glass fuses either, think they and their holders are even more problematic, and No other palatable options really exist.
I bought some dies to use in the Anderson Powerpole ratcheting crimpers, but these only crimp the blue 14-16 awg and red 18-22 awg wires. There are of course Yellow 10-12 flag terminals, and these require a different method or different dies, the latter of which, I do not have.
First off, I do not really trust the flag terminal crimper, as I don't really trust any crimp where there is insulation between the contact and the dies.
But, it makes an adequate physical connection, as in I can break the wire before the wire pulls from the crimp, most of the time. Loading it to the max ampacity of the wire is required to determine if it is an adequate electrical connection. I've not done intentionally that for the required time to develop issues, and have not had ANY issues with any of these inline fuse holders .
My process it to cut about ~3/16 inches from the positive wire, attach the flag terminals, stick a fuse in there, masking tape the fuse, then encase both flag terminals in Amazing goop, carefully applied with a small stick, one side at a time. The Small Zip ties hold the positive wire to the negative while the goop dries, and should one exert lots of force on the wire, the negative wire and its insulation would have to part, before the flag terminal' crimps/ fuse and the Amazing goop begin to take the load.
One can do this with regular 1/4 inch quick connects as well, but the negative wire has to do a loop, and it is not as low profile, but one does not need the flag terminal crimper, or go through some extra effort to solder them instead.
The Photo below, I used the ratcheting crimper dies, but in the past I have cut my own door in the blue or red terminals, drilled the opening to be able to slide up the wire insulation, crimper the terminal, soldered over the crimp, slid the insulation down, then amazing gooped it together, but this takes 10 times as long as using the flag terminal crimper.
This link shows what the dies look like, and also has links to flag terminals.
If you look a the 10-12 flag terminals,
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Disconnects-Electrical-Assortment/dp/B01CXPV5B2/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/139-0954565-8439832?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CXPV5B2&pd_rd_r=cae6733d-aa61-4d5b-b4a0-d9528a52273a&pd_rd_w=rlbXF&pd_rd_wg=7JGfv&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=DAMT32N7TXMFN1MJM8PA&psc=1&refRID=DAMT32N7TXMFN1MJM8PA
one can see the one end of the insulation, has a hinged door, and the interior contact is easily removed. One slides the yellow insulator up the wire and then can lightly crimp the barrel over the wire, and also solder it as well. Then one slides the yellow insulator down the wire over the flag terminal and closed the door.
I use a step drill bit to open the aperture to allow the insulation slide up 10 or 12 and maybe 14 awg wire.
I don't have any good pics of the 10-12 yellow inline fuse holder, yet.
I was trying to find 8 AWG flag terminals for gripping the 3/8" tangs of Maxi Fuses, but no such product exists.
I have two of these for Maxifuses on my 8awg or thicker, instead which seem pretty well built and could be further improved, without too much effort.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223089717657?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33f12ef199:g:8DMAAOSw4a1bZufp&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMF3iIIn7gbyWyrm4GVTJTviVDDvnUwdSWK77GM2hCTaUJp5%252F3LSpBwXsVTC%252FwM4KH7Koo4G7yguG5Tx2l6sXoGwMgprfnIzF0KrgLGDAZzoda0PYd%252FE%252By%252FZ524wv245XzJ0Mk5VrS28V0QURqFlr6MFIUQXcwJYEzWHllqtPbG8rijK23jJ41lqy8IOTkiXo4ObI3cHkLjgi2kHumKBIojXWcpBk9La4ozNw%252BvqbGmoZrVOGap9Y%252B6kukEDwtmoKj2T%252B78l2eu3zR1XdC1QGi4TvIzqowI9BKrkfSvGZjyf0RNy3gPm%252BP3tzlmo6hySLBJbAguUTE2x0X%252FBjhkhmCD3LhUpDFWJMSClVkq9T3yV7WMG3CEI8hU0D%252FvlSR2DEa5fgJAXuBg0l1Lq3tzTFB0T5qACNHp3wjpaou2UqcH3woNoPGrX%252Bjw3n95ncFhtA%252FtludZ99vP%252B44wE3bjJhu3m4pbxnwgc%252BM%252BPGJ%252BTHTPWAH%252BDHQkuWcrwGOqDiRgDJZmUV5uCHo%252B6GW22gggKywEeg6OMFXjSM8uD1Bh8I%252Bd%252Fwp3mDzQxM6Hh2RB54UEPBiwg0po7q%252FiB8dQLAnPmDh1szfVg9FEpgyyovhXXm7EFrt4aVUEFGxW%252BRGk9%252B9FY8hkhT%252FHNFTOaUpn1gzk2tuwxCHAyUwM9LbDXxNzwt%252FcyV6%252Fx1RuKdIMsXGAO2d0XOi5a31JV7YhFTbYmpjVs%252FUTT6vBqzHo%252BUPnu%252FfDdRTB7Nva%252BRuaVHhR2MhJq0%252BgZCtw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A223089717657a328cdc02d1a48a0b5a404d5ab3ffa49%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524&autorefresh=true
I have larger gauge wire feeding 45 amp anderson powerpoles everywhere, and what I plug into these powerpoles usually has far thinner wire, which should have a fuse rated to protect that smaller gauge wire.
So that's Why I add these inline fuse holders. Making my own means two less butt splice connections,( resistance. potential failure points) compared to buying a premade inline fuse holder, and I can be reasonably sure the connection is as good as such a connection can be, rather than trusting the Chinese manufacturer used actual copper 10AWG, and not copper clad aluminum, and crimped it properly within the molded housing.
The Blue fise in the photo Is a junky fuse. Today, I witnessed such a junky 2 amp fuse pass 5 amps for about 30 seconds today before I saw it flash and burn. It was on 12 AWG wire from a 100 watt solar panel, so obviously it would blow when the clouds parted.
Beware of cheapo junky fuses. Bussman Aint cheap, but on task critical applications at the limit of the wire's ampacity rating, don't skimp.
I've bought them, used them, and had the entire molded portion of the holder completely melt around the melted fuse, which never blew.
Usually this only occurs with 15+ amps continuous, and the better ones are more like 25 amps continuous, but one can acquire 30 35 and even 40 amp ATC/ATO fuses, and I think it is unwise to exceed 25 amps continuous with these no matter what.
One reason they are inadequate for 15-25+ amps continuous, is that the portion which clasps the fuse tangs is Brass, not copper, and Brass is generally less than 1/3rd as conductive as pure copper. It is not 3x as thick to make up for the lack of conductivity and as a result it is a heating point, as is any fuse itself.
With the premade inline molded fuse holders, one has no idea how well the quick connect contact is attached to the wire, inside the molding. I've smelled burning plastic only to find one section of the fuse holder melting and just starting to smoke, precisely at this point. I've had a complete failure of such premade inline holders with no obvious signs, requiring elimination of everything else before I figured out why there was no power reaching device.
So I now, make my own.
I like using Flag terminals, for their lower profile.
The Flag terminals are not really cheap, and are still just plated brass, at best. In the sub 30 amp range, I dont like glass fuses either, think they and their holders are even more problematic, and No other palatable options really exist.
I bought some dies to use in the Anderson Powerpole ratcheting crimpers, but these only crimp the blue 14-16 awg and red 18-22 awg wires. There are of course Yellow 10-12 flag terminals, and these require a different method or different dies, the latter of which, I do not have.
First off, I do not really trust the flag terminal crimper, as I don't really trust any crimp where there is insulation between the contact and the dies.
But, it makes an adequate physical connection, as in I can break the wire before the wire pulls from the crimp, most of the time. Loading it to the max ampacity of the wire is required to determine if it is an adequate electrical connection. I've not done intentionally that for the required time to develop issues, and have not had ANY issues with any of these inline fuse holders .
My process it to cut about ~3/16 inches from the positive wire, attach the flag terminals, stick a fuse in there, masking tape the fuse, then encase both flag terminals in Amazing goop, carefully applied with a small stick, one side at a time. The Small Zip ties hold the positive wire to the negative while the goop dries, and should one exert lots of force on the wire, the negative wire and its insulation would have to part, before the flag terminal' crimps/ fuse and the Amazing goop begin to take the load.
One can do this with regular 1/4 inch quick connects as well, but the negative wire has to do a loop, and it is not as low profile, but one does not need the flag terminal crimper, or go through some extra effort to solder them instead.
The Photo below, I used the ratcheting crimper dies, but in the past I have cut my own door in the blue or red terminals, drilled the opening to be able to slide up the wire insulation, crimper the terminal, soldered over the crimp, slid the insulation down, then amazing gooped it together, but this takes 10 times as long as using the flag terminal crimper.
This link shows what the dies look like, and also has links to flag terminals.
If you look a the 10-12 flag terminals,
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Disconnects-Electrical-Assortment/dp/B01CXPV5B2/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/139-0954565-8439832?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CXPV5B2&pd_rd_r=cae6733d-aa61-4d5b-b4a0-d9528a52273a&pd_rd_w=rlbXF&pd_rd_wg=7JGfv&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=DAMT32N7TXMFN1MJM8PA&psc=1&refRID=DAMT32N7TXMFN1MJM8PA
one can see the one end of the insulation, has a hinged door, and the interior contact is easily removed. One slides the yellow insulator up the wire and then can lightly crimp the barrel over the wire, and also solder it as well. Then one slides the yellow insulator down the wire over the flag terminal and closed the door.
I use a step drill bit to open the aperture to allow the insulation slide up 10 or 12 and maybe 14 awg wire.
I don't have any good pics of the 10-12 yellow inline fuse holder, yet.
I was trying to find 8 AWG flag terminals for gripping the 3/8" tangs of Maxi Fuses, but no such product exists.
I have two of these for Maxifuses on my 8awg or thicker, instead which seem pretty well built and could be further improved, without too much effort.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223089717657?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33f12ef199:g:8DMAAOSw4a1bZufp&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMF3iIIn7gbyWyrm4GVTJTviVDDvnUwdSWK77GM2hCTaUJp5%252F3LSpBwXsVTC%252FwM4KH7Koo4G7yguG5Tx2l6sXoGwMgprfnIzF0KrgLGDAZzoda0PYd%252FE%252By%252FZ524wv245XzJ0Mk5VrS28V0QURqFlr6MFIUQXcwJYEzWHllqtPbG8rijK23jJ41lqy8IOTkiXo4ObI3cHkLjgi2kHumKBIojXWcpBk9La4ozNw%252BvqbGmoZrVOGap9Y%252B6kukEDwtmoKj2T%252B78l2eu3zR1XdC1QGi4TvIzqowI9BKrkfSvGZjyf0RNy3gPm%252BP3tzlmo6hySLBJbAguUTE2x0X%252FBjhkhmCD3LhUpDFWJMSClVkq9T3yV7WMG3CEI8hU0D%252FvlSR2DEa5fgJAXuBg0l1Lq3tzTFB0T5qACNHp3wjpaou2UqcH3woNoPGrX%252Bjw3n95ncFhtA%252FtludZ99vP%252B44wE3bjJhu3m4pbxnwgc%252BM%252BPGJ%252BTHTPWAH%252BDHQkuWcrwGOqDiRgDJZmUV5uCHo%252B6GW22gggKywEeg6OMFXjSM8uD1Bh8I%252Bd%252Fwp3mDzQxM6Hh2RB54UEPBiwg0po7q%252FiB8dQLAnPmDh1szfVg9FEpgyyovhXXm7EFrt4aVUEFGxW%252BRGk9%252B9FY8hkhT%252FHNFTOaUpn1gzk2tuwxCHAyUwM9LbDXxNzwt%252FcyV6%252Fx1RuKdIMsXGAO2d0XOi5a31JV7YhFTbYmpjVs%252FUTT6vBqzHo%252BUPnu%252FfDdRTB7Nva%252BRuaVHhR2MhJq0%252BgZCtw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A223089717657a328cdc02d1a48a0b5a404d5ab3ffa49%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524&autorefresh=true
I have larger gauge wire feeding 45 amp anderson powerpoles everywhere, and what I plug into these powerpoles usually has far thinner wire, which should have a fuse rated to protect that smaller gauge wire.
So that's Why I add these inline fuse holders. Making my own means two less butt splice connections,( resistance. potential failure points) compared to buying a premade inline fuse holder, and I can be reasonably sure the connection is as good as such a connection can be, rather than trusting the Chinese manufacturer used actual copper 10AWG, and not copper clad aluminum, and crimped it properly within the molded housing.
The Blue fise in the photo Is a junky fuse. Today, I witnessed such a junky 2 amp fuse pass 5 amps for about 30 seconds today before I saw it flash and burn. It was on 12 AWG wire from a 100 watt solar panel, so obviously it would blow when the clouds parted.
Beware of cheapo junky fuses. Bussman Aint cheap, but on task critical applications at the limit of the wire's ampacity rating, don't skimp.
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