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[Scott7022]

B2B. Remove the isolater unless you have twin batteries in engine bay. Come off positive post to a good fuse or magnetic breaker within nine inches of four gauge wire travel. Fuse to the B2B rated input max if known if not then fuse high for dead short protection. Then to B2B. Good B2B can be wired to ign on B2B on. Ignition off B2B off. This is the best practice. If you leave it voltage dependent then you can run into issues.

For example. You hook up a battery charger to your engine bay battery to top off. B2B “sees” 14.3 and turns on. Battery charger is pushing 25 amps into your engine battery and the B2B pushes 40 to the house. This scenario pulls the extra power from you engine battery at a rate faster than you’re putting in. Not good. Same goes for shore power charging systems. Charge the house and engine separated. Engine charges both, wired as previous stated. Trickle charger used separately. Solar only charges house battery. Engine battery separated from house when engine off. Don’t install accessories to single engine battery as a rule. Again IMHO.

Sterling and RedArc both have this ignition feature.

After the B2B another fuse or breaker at ten amps over rated output. Dead short protection again on a wire sized for the output + the ten, amps at length. Best to keep the B2B close to the engine battery. Both the RedArc and Sterling are fine for engine bay application with the Sterling even having a unit very water resistant.

An option, not the cheapest but imho the best one. Perhaps Sternwake has a different scenario that is better in other applications or cheaper work around?


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