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gc2 batteries $80

i thought about it but one run down flat hurts batteries so much i just dont want to take the risk,they should be better than what i have anyways but 2 gc2's for $80 which is just more than their core charge
"not of the body"
The trouble with used batteries is you don't know HOW they were used.....
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well,you know me,i emailed him and he said they came with his new trailer in sep.2020 so i ask for a time and place,who knows how long they sat in the trailer before he bought it,looks like he has a charger on them and if the water is full not sure how i could find out what compacity is left in them,anyone up for a game of craps?
"not of the body"
looks like i am second in line
"not of the body"
Golf cart batteries are pretty resilient.

Abused when new, is far different than abused when old.

What brand?

What's the biggest known DC load you can bring to them, to apply to them?

A load tester is supposed to apply 1/2 the CCA rating of the battery for 30 seconds and the battery is supposed to stay above 7.5v. 450 amps for 30 seconds can make batteries fail.

Most carbon pile load testers are 100 or 150 amps.
Most starter motors are a partial second of about 220 amps to get engine moving, then about 150 to 180 amps for the duration of the cranking.

A good battery will hold over 10.5v starting a cold motor and over 11.2 on a warm motor.

Bring some good jumper cables, remove the terminals on your engine starting battery and jumper cable to the GC-2's. Watch a voltmeter on the GC-2 terminals when cranking the engine.

If it stays over 11.2v then they are definitely worth 80$.

Granted the guy might not want to let you do this.

Checking voltage hot off the charger will be meaningless unless it is only 12.2v instead of 12.9v plus as expected.

Specific gravity can read full, but that only reveals the tank is full, not the size of the tank.

if they are hot off the charger, but specific gravity is 1.250 or less, they might respond well to an Equalization charge.

If taking specific gravity readings hot off the charger, is the electrolyte cloudy with gray Floaties?

Considering your stated large core charges, even if they have poor capacity left, they can still be useful in terms of figuring out where, and how to best secure them, then a new set is a 10 minute drop in, when that becomes necessary.

Accurately judging remaining capacity requires the 20 hour load test. 200 amps hours, apply exactly 10 amps for 20 hours and hope it stays above 10.5v.

I've been cycling used AGM GC-2 batteries for a while, and even with a battery monitor, I can only guess that they have about 130 Ah of their original 190 left.

I've not taken more than 65Ah from them yet and they did hit as low as 12.1v, but with an 8 amp load.

If 12.2v rested is 50% and 65 Ah from full was measured accurately, then I figure they have anywhere from 120 to 150 amp hours capacity total remaining, with about 75% confidence in that estimation with the data collected from my observances so far.

When down around 45 Ah from full, and I plug in to charge, they can max out my 40 amp power supply set to 14.4, for a good while before the voltage at the terminals, climbs to 14.4v.
If they could not, I would have much less faith in them.

I've no personal experience with the inductive battery testers that can be had for ~30$ and up.
I keep considering acquiring one just to add another data point. Their battery resistance figure, directly tied to CCA, is much easier than figuring it out manually.

A battery which fails a load test, might just be unhappy trying to power huge short duration loads, but be perfectly fine if the overnight loads never surpass 15 amps.

When drawn down well below 50%, how long it takes at 14.8v for specific gravity to stop raising, is another indicator of health. Some batteries might hold Ok voltage overnight, but can take 6 hours just to get from 80% to 100%, instead of the 3.5 of a new healthy battery.
Charge efficiency when poor, can be annoying as it takes so long to get anywhere near full.

Comparing the voltage retention of a 12v marine battery, to 2x as much capacity of golf cart battery, is not really a fair competition, as the marine battery is much closer in construction to a starter battery than a true deep cycle like a golf cart.

My 18 month old single Northstar AGM 31 with 103Ah capacity( when new) battery holds higher voltage than
4 year old Deka GC-2s(190Ah of capacity), right to about 60 AH from full, and turns my engine over faster.
the early bird was not me,missed it by about 5 minutes
"not of the body"

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