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Air cleaner temperature sensor, Dodge, perhaps others
It is. Theres only minor differences from 89 to 90.

If it hesitates when at full temperature the spark plug wires could be compromised. Make sure they dont touch each other, or grounded metal

ln vans the dog house/engine cover acts a bit like a parabolic mirror concentrating radiant heat on the wires. They simply do not last very long.

I thought Niko would have fixed her blend door vacuum actuator by now.
I've never had to replace a single one on all the diesels I've owned. Amazing or just lucky one of the 3 Smile
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." - Thomas Jefferson
Every two years i have to pass a California Smog test.  It has to have all the original Smog equipment installed and hooked up properly, visually, and it has to pass a sniffer test at 15 and 25mph with drive wheels on a Dyno.

I always  am interested in the sniffer results.  The better the engine runs, basically, the better the sniffer numbers, even though forcing lower NO by reducing combustion temperatures by re introducing exhaust gasses into combustion chanber Via the EGR valve is not helping it run better, but it is effective in reducing oxides of nitrogen which make up the visual smog of basins like LA.

Since my last test 2 years ago, the differences are this new air temp sensor that tries to keep intake air charge to 100f, and the new extended reach spark plugs, and the less restrictive cold air snorkel leading to the air filter housing.

The last cross country journey west I achieved the best MPG ever, and the latest smog sniffer test results show lower hydrocarbons and Oxides of nitrogen than the previous test, and it easily passed.

I took it to the same outfit and the tech remembered my van, and said she was running great.  He appreciated that I removed the engine cover to ease his workload as he has to visually check for all the original smog components.  They typically charge 25$ more for Vans or RVs for this reason and this shop has always not charged me for it as i always tel them the cover will be removed for them.
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  • rvpopeye (07-18-2021)
Odd timing. Laid up as I am I have a bit more time to “stay in touch” with my peeps around the world. I was talking with a racing engineer, he used to pull wrenches on my SCCA unlimited class MR2 back in the day. While tech school educated back in the 70’s he has really a hands on: run it test it and rerun it again, attitude.

What I found interesting is the similarities in your writing styles and detailed analysis of the outcome, and reevaluations. I lack the patience for such work.

He was telling me about his Cummins diesel in his 2016 3500. Canada has adopted the same laws nationally thar California has stateside without the testing requirements and very limited enforcement. So many diesels are deleted and tuned. Even sold that way from dealerships. Perhaps not Ram dealerships but even then sometimes. They just don’t list it in the description. If you look at the pictures you can see the tuner on the dash or the little rotary knob under the light switch.
Anyway this guy is kinda a green tree huger type and put his brain to the issue of making power and staying green. Really green! Less than the standard required by legislation. The main issue was the lousy transmission behind the big Ram motor. He worked with a company in the USA to develop an Allison swap to go in. They worked that out a few months ago and it will handle 800hp. This was his theoretical balance number. I’ll explain as he explained it to me.

With very precise injectors, less allowable fueling fluctuations, matched to a huge intake and compounding turbo, not twin turbo, all controlled by a much faster ECU he figured the sweet spot would be in the vicinity of 730 and 810 horses. He couldn’t test this before as the Ram transmission variants will only hold 400hp even if you overdrive the Transmission controller to 200psi. Things will break quickly at this point.

So to speed this up: take the big diesel and give it a perfect combination of fuel/air with a variation of below 3%, stock injectors vary by 8% and cheap part reman units as high as 10%. This requires the fuel pressure and volume to be capable and the Cp4 pump isn’t the correct animal. An updated CP4 and an additional CP3 insures the common fuel rail has the pressure and volume without cavitation bubbles introduced by a struggling fuel delivery system. The compounding turbo controls pressure and allows for a greater airflow and heat. The intact emissions equipment benefit from this perfect burn and the EGR remains relatively clean. It’s a diesel so... The exhaust cleaning section benefits as the perfect burn raises NOX but lowers soot particulate. NOX is easily handled by hr pipes but the particulate filter, at the end of the process in the Ram, still sees soot and the regen function cleans the soot but this filter still packs up. To clean it you have to remove it or re and re a new part, which is about five grand as it is an entire system piece.

So here is the thing. This guy could have deleted and done all the power changes to get the truck he wants and sang with the choir “dumping engine gas into your motor and diesel into your exhaust to save the environment burning more fuel in an inefficient engine is STUPID.” He didn’t. He thought the Rams non serviceable exhaust system was stupid. Even more stupid than the fords. So he designed and built a canister system. NOX chamber failed, swap out the canister. Particulate filter so full you’re getting regen cycles all the time, swap it out. Truck stays clean and runs correctly. Remember air out is just as important as air in. Hence why adding a six inch straight pipe and rolling coal is the cheap easy go fast path. The dark side.

So he built the system, engineered the canister system and sold the works to a US diesel specialist company that is putting it into production and pocketed a million and a half. His truck dynos to 775 Hp and burns cleaner than a brand new 2021, and finally has an Allison transmission behind his Cummins.

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Beast Master,JunkyMonkey,Drinks with Wolves,Fup'd Duck,Sheriff Ricochet Cockroach 4B's 1 cluster,3 TFMS Tempory Weirdo Overlord replacement 
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  • rvpopeye (07-18-2021)
Sign him up !
Stay Tuned

Weirdo Overlord  YARC 
15 "Stinkin'Badges"  a "Full Monty Badge" 2 "Just Ignore Me" clusters  10 "Pine Cone" clusters  , one "Stinkin' Badger" and 8 of the coveted "Flying Manure Spreader"awards
(What a "Stinkin' " honor !)
That's pretty neat you buddy was able to improve power and keep it clean, easier to service economically, and was able to profit off of it.

I found my 2017 smog report, and My HC and NOx on the most recent test are about half of the 2017, but CO and c02 raised slightly.

Last night I remembered, that pretest, when setting my timing back to 10 degrees BTDC for the smog test, that I am supposed to remove the connector for coolant temp sensor, and I did not. Not sure how much difference that makes as they tech is supposed to put the timing light on it and check, and my report says 10 degrees. Oh well I passed, easily.

I have a dreaded air pump, which pushes air into exhaust stream either at E manifold, or at Catcon. Take the belt off without plugging off these lines, and the check valves quickly fail and the smog pump seizes. and this smog pump, as poorly designed and ineffective as it is, in terms of air moved, is now in the 120$ range. it is also loud and annoying and robs some HP.

My EGR valve is vacuum controlled. Easy enough to disable it. Being a Van I can drive with the engine cover off and have climbed a hill, removing and returning this vacuum line to EGR, and it feels like I need 20% more throttle when it is hooked up and the engine is choking with the extra effort.

I also spent some time twisting the distributor accellerating up hills, to the point it starts pinging, and while the book says I have to have it set at 10 degrees BTDC, it does not start pinging on 87 octane until about 19 degrees, and I generally set it at 16 degrees BTDC for best throttle response.

I have not yet removed the smog pump belt or removed the check valves and plugged the lines post test. I would love to actually be able to run the sniffer test with and without the smog pump functional. They say it eats upto 5HP.

Same with the spark timing. I think they sacrifice a lot of efficiency to get the NOx numbers down via EGR, and running a smog pump simply to help burn off more HCs in the catcon, likely is counterproductive as the smog pump drag, causes the engine to burn more fuel. My catcon is now 16 years old.

I do not feel good about disabling some of the smog components, and am perhaps fooling myself thinking that I actually burn less fuel overall with them disabled as less throttle is needed to get up and go.

While I do not like to be placed in the 'Greenie' environmentalist category, I think it is shameful how myopic greedy humans think it is their prerogative to pollute/destroy as much as they want, in their quest to fill the hole in their vapid insecure souls, and any restriction placed on that ability is oppression, especially from the highly ignorant/hyper arrogant, in their twilight years.

One reason I live as I do, as I have a tiny fraction of the environmental footprint as the Average American/ westerner, even driving a 16mpg max gas guzzler, cross country 2x a year.
had a 90's? camero that didnt pass deq, clogged injectors,didnt pass the first time,took it out on the highway in 3rd gear and got that catalytic good and hot,drove back in and it easily passed

trying to figure a way to get my 1977,first year of smog to be change to 1976
"not of the body"
Hey! Are you the person with a 1989 Dodge Ram Van b250 Road Trek???

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In Michigan the inspections were done through private businesses. They would always suggest driving around for a bit before they would stick the sensor up the pipe. I had all but forgotten about that routine. Nye County Nevada has no test requirement. Clark County (Las Vegas) does.

Way back to my days in New York state, private stations also did the annual inspections, the state fixed the fee at $5. They would always find the headlights needed adjustment for another $5, or the wiper blades needing replacement for the parts and labor. Way back, as in the mid 70's, when a fiver could buy a lot more. 20 ounce gut buster sodas were less than a buck.
(05-18-2021, 12:56 AM)sternwake Wrote: It is. Theres only minor differences from 89 to 90.

If it hesitates when at full temperature the spark plug wires could be compromised. Make sure they dont touch each other, or grounded metal

ln vans the dog house/engine cover acts a bit like a parabolic mirror concentrating radiant heat on the wires. They simply do not last very long.

I thought Niko would have fixed her blend door vacuum actuator by now.
Hi... Are you the person with the 1989 Dodge Ram Van B250 Road Trek? I am looking for part info.... Thank You....

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