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Reflectix Vs similar products
#11
On my old '77 Dodge van a metal shop made me a flat piece of about 1/16" steel to put across the front of my van below the bumper. IIRC (that was a long time ago) it stuck down about 4 inches lower than the radiator. This seemed to pull more air through the radiator and was one of the things that helped it run 140 MPH as it removed some of the airflow from underbody drag. Did I ever say I missed that old van? I put a 36 gallon gas tank on it (came with a 22) and a saddle tank of 14 gallons. It sure hurt to fill up but not have to stop for gas was great.
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
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  • AbuelaLoca (06-11-2020), heron (06-14-2020)
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#12
I made some wheel well skirts, so that the engine is not visible through the wheel well. This blocked a lot of engine noise from the sides, but also changed the aerodynamics of the engine compartment at speed.

After installation, when driving in the rain, with a rain X'd or waxed windshield, the beaded water seemed to not blow up and over the windshield nearly as easily at the same speed, and highway MPG 'might' have suffered slightly.

I always ponder the aerodynamics of my van in my quest for more highway MPG and less noise. Chrysler did not seemingly put any thought whatsoever into aerodynamics of a rolling brick pre '93, but there has to be gains possible, but trial and error can lead to a lot of wasted time and gas and material, more than enough to pay for more gas.

I think I am too used to butting my wheels up against curbs, to add a chin spoiler or similar without knowing for sure it can add highway MPG's
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  • heron (06-14-2020)
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#13
At normal speeds, a chin spoiler would probably not make much difference. Any air that can be moved around the vehicle and not under it was my goal. I think race cars use belly pans to cut down on drag. I would never want to go that far for a daily driven vehicle. What a headache to work on anything afterwards. A van is bad enough to start with.
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
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  • heron (06-14-2020)
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#14
i used this stuff on the inside of the dog house https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14610 dense rubber/tar like material,the self stick wasnt that good so self tapping screws happened

use this on the cab floor https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Heat-Insula...Sw76xewjgS white foam material,this is what i painted,it flexes so the enamal paint flakes off

havent driven it enough to know how good it works but from past experiences dog houses get hot so anything is better than nothing

as far as refetix,i got the double bubble and glued it to 1/16 paneling for my giant windows,works great,stores under the bed mattress
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  • AbuelaLoca (06-11-2020), heron (06-14-2020)
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#15
I'm thinking since my wheel well skirts stop air exiting the front wheel wells, where there is likely low pressure at speed where the air would naturally want to flow, it is forced between the frame rails, creating compression there, and drag. but with less air flowing over my windshield evidenced at speed in rainstorms with beading water indicators, perhaps more is forced under van and through grille/ radiator.

The one Vanagon guy claims to have significant highway gains with a chin spoiler, but we all know about MPG gains/claims. One time with a 50 knot tailwind someone got 20MPG, and forever after they get 20mpg to anybody who askes. City highway, at 100MpH, they and their claims become invincible......

Perhaps a chin spoiler like device would pull the air forced through grille under the van behind the radiator instead of allowing it to converge on bell housing and TX support cross member.

Egad now Im thinking about mounting anemometers in various locations.. Dammitt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wait I already own a windtunnel worthy fan, I'll make a model and some sort of smoke releasing machine and Doooh.

Thanks for the product links BT. The heat blocking portion of the buytl when mounted inside cabin, is 99% the reflective surface having less emissivity, meaning it does not as easily release/radiate heat as does a dark surface.

Spraying a hot metal surface, like a firewall's interior with some super 77 or 90 adhesive, then apply some aluminum foil, shiny side out, would have similar effects. But no/little sound dampening.

I can get a 24 x 32 recycled rubber door mat for 10$. could adhere tin foil/reflectix to that, with checkerboard door matt grid adhered to firewall with some dead air spaces. Probably be quite effective at sound deadening and radiating less engine firewall heat to interior

BUt rubber burns. and those mats stink like toxic mold release agent for a month or three after purchase and initial scrub.

I got some 48"x10' 5mm thick smart shield ordered.
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  • heron (06-14-2020)
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#16
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-ul-bm They have silver also.
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." - Thomas Jefferson
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#17
aero in passenger vehicles is all about drag,get up to 60mph,stick your hand out the window in the horizontal then move it to vertical,be careful it might hurt you

so what 20-30 lb's of pressure from one hand,so how many hand sized areas are your side mirrors,front suspension,oil pan,rear diff,front bumper,fire wall,tires,having your window open etc. it all adds up

it takes what 20hp to get to 50mph,a couple hundred hp to get to 100mph,a few hundred hp to get to 150mph and many hundred hp to get to 200 mph all because of drag,the faster you go the more drag there is https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news.../index.htm


In on-highway applications, aerodynamics contributes 50% to overall fuel economy, so it's critical that the vehicle is designed and spec'd to minimize aerodynamic drag. One of the basic principles of aerodynamics is to keep airflow "attached" to the vehicle. https://www.internationaltrucks.com/blog...20vehicle.
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  • rvpopeye (06-11-2020), heron (06-14-2020)
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#18
Good explanation.
I never was a big fan of drag...whatever the def. LOL.
stay tuned 
popeye


 Weirdo Overlord : FMS Fleet Ops , Awards , Badges ,  aka Tamerlane the Impaler Mod.
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#19
Im also concerned about noise and heat in this G30 van. It’s shorts and sandals driving it on a hot day. I’m not sure the heater is shutting off all the way. That’s the first thing I’ll check.
 The original engine insulation is intact in the doghouse. The firewall doesn’t have much to begin with. Maybe I’ll try some floor mats glued to it also. I’m hoping to get a lot of work done on it the next week or so. 
 Terrible aerodynamics. It has a vertical wall in the front in front as it’s a converted cut away van. There’s a lot of wind noise when driving. A headwind is the worst. And strange noises from the bus door when the wind hits it just right. Going slow is pleasant.
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#20
I've been meaning to check the  remaining efficacy/quality of air insulation on the blend door, which I hear Rusts very easily.   I did miss the ridiculous amount of heat my heater used to be able to pump out crossing the Rockies in December and February.
Pretty interesting the MPG %  increase claims on that international trucks link.
Chassis skirts, 1.25 to 3.25%....is significant.
I have smoothed the transition, somewhat, from my windshield to my fiberglass roof, but it is very far from ideal.

I intend to add a A lot of additional insulation  sound proofing up front, as 10 hours days driving x country the ears are ringing way louder than normal when i stop and rest.  I also find listening to podcasts rather than music, can sometimes require ridiculous volumes when a speaker moves in relationship to the microphone.  Then the host kicks in at full volume and it is way too loud.
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  • heron (06-14-2020)
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