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Using pre-made wall liners... still need added sound deadening?
#1
Tongue 
Once we buy (still debating between Transit and Express), I’ll have a place up by Chicago do these panels for the walls and ceiling:

https://www.inlad.com/product/insulated-...mc-savana/

They offer foam/foil insulation and some sound deadening, should I add some more sound deadening?




BTW, This is for travel and camping, not full time living. I can’t do the walls and ceiling with my beat up body, so this is my chosen alternative.
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#2
With that liner, be sure to get a fan installed in the roof. 

How much is that?  It looks nice. The rubber ? Floor mat would also be a plus for old bones.
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
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#3
The liners, walls and ceiling are around a grand. We’ll get a bed rug for the floor.
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#4
A vent fan is necessary. After I put in my home made liner and vent fan I was able to regulate the temperature by adjusting the windows. My I’ve chest had a blanket on it and a cold cave next to it for Tigger on hot days. 

Those panels look nice.
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
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#5
Is a non-powered vent okay (if I can find one)? I’m not planning on a battery or solar until the second year ($$).
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#6
Vents use almost no electricity. They can be pre wired so when you do get solar it is just hooking up the wires.  Once the walls are up a wire is harder to run.
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
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#7
Sound deadening can be taken to extremes, and is usually only done so by audiophiles with stereo systems more expensive than the vehicle platform itself, or nearly so.

Much of the extra sound deadening is not achieved by completely covering an interior wall panel of the exterior skin, in between its internal supports, but merely placing a square of some dampening material in between those supports..

Say there is a 2' x 2' unsupported body panel. A 6x6 square od dampening material in the middle of this body panel would be 95%+ as effective at dampening sounds /vibration, compared to if the entire 2x2' panel was covered with the deadening material. when one prices materials like Dynamat then one sees why one dows not simply cover the entire interior with the stuff, unless they have money to burn or a complete lack of the ability to understand physics, or are using the interior space as a recording studio.

recently I put some 6x9 speakers on a 73 vw bus doors and the driver's door itself was buzzing horribly with any degree of bass. I got rid of 90% of the buzz by using some peel and seal type of roofer's butyl tape in the middle of the unsupported panels. I ran out of the tape or would have added more mass in more areas trying for that last 10% of buzz reduction, but realistically the volume the buzzing occurred at was above what the owner would ever employ.

Regarding adding a roof exhaust vent, that of course that is extremely wise.

But I have to point out some things.

On the other forum, the pied piper of van dwelling would often say and repeat ad nauseum, that if one insulated their van, then in hot weather that insulation would be a bad thing at night as it would keep the van hotter, at night.

This is false, unless one were to lock themselves inside at sundown and close all windows lock them selves inside, and deny any air exchange from inside and out.
What kind of fool would do such a thing when the goal is to not overheat?

The insulation itself, has extremely low thermal mass. It can change temperatures easily with little energy supplied either to cool or heat it. It is not like a gigantic piece of iron or steel or stone that takes a lot of energy to be brought up to temperature than takes a long time to radiate it later on when removed from heat source.

A van baking in 95 degree heat all day is NOT going to stay hotter at night, just because it is well insulated, not because of the insulation.
In fact since the interior metal components of the van, those which do absorb and store heat, to later radiate inside and out it over a period of hours, are likely to get no where near as hot in an insulated van with a modicum of ventilation, then at night there is less potential for an insulated van to be remain as hot for as long hot as an un-insulated van.

And when one adds insulation and excellent ventilation then one can almost always keep the van interior the same temperature as the exterior, by controlling whether their is air exchange or not, inside to out. outside to inside.

As far as sound insulation, some heavier thicker stick on $$tuff like Dynamat on the interior of the body panels, inside the least supported areas of body panel, will reduce inside noise from transmitting to exterior, and outside noise from transmitting inside. Some people plaster the whole interior of every surface with the stuff, and this is indeed even more effective, but only slightly more so than in the middle of unsupported panels that can more easily resonate/vibrate when hit by sound waves

The Dynamat's( and similar product's) silver interior color adds insulative properties too, but mostly as silver is the least emissive color. It radiates stored heat slower than any other color, even if there is no dead air space. A hot silver surface radiates less stored heat than a darker color, whether a human is there to observe it or not whether there is a dead air space there or not.

Both Proper insulation and ventilation can keep one comfortable enough in some pretty dang inhospitable climates. but a lot of one does not negate the need for the other.

The pied piper of VD, had/has a lot of strong opinions yelled as fact that defy both well established physics and logic.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • Queen (09-01-2019)
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#8
Thanks Sternwake, I want to do some small sound deadening patches of that butyl stuff, a friend did her van with it and it helped a lot.
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#9
(09-01-2019, 05:33 PM)Queen Wrote: Thanks Sternwake, I want to do some small sound deadening patches of that butyl stuff, a friend did her van with it and it helped a lot.
  I added roofing butyl patches  to the interior of my front door's  several years ago and my door speakers sounded so much better afterwards, and the door closed with a solid quick undodge like thunk, instead,of a hollow rattle.  I then got more and did the entire interior door panel with no further significant  detectable improvement in speaker sound quality road noise or door 'thunk'iness.

The roofing products, as opposed to the pricey dynamat type products are likely  not be the best choice for dark exterior colors in a hot climate. 

Butyl products adhere well to most any substrate, but better surface prep can only help that adhesion, and something like  J roller to insure it is pressed on well during warmer temperatures, is likely wise.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • Queen (09-01-2019)
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