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Lost power in half of rv
#11
BTDT.....
Just keep an eye on it to make sure it's doing it's job.
stay tuned 
popeye


 Weirdo Overlord : FMS Fleet Ops , Awards , Badges ,  aka Tamerlane the Impaler Mod.
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#12
Replacing the WFCO converter is one of the first things I did to my van when I got it. Those were known to cook batteries. In fact the manual for the van says it should only be plugged in for a day every month when in storage. I bought the Progressive Dynamics one that was a direct drop in replacement.
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
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#13
wow AC gone is tough! losing 1/2 your power is tough! ugh
3 Stinkin' Badges, YARC, 3 Cat Ass Trophies , ROOIRIA Wannabe,(never happen) and still a Bisquit cause me soggy!
And 2 run down Flying Manure Spreaders!
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#14
Got the part, it is a WFCO. Well, looking for 6 months use out of it, I’ll definitely replace it this winter before Big Bend.
One Stinkin Badge!
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#15
Here's another vote for Progressive Dynamics They have been flawless for me and when I got my first one for my first TT I had a dumb question and called their customer service and got an answer from a real person in Michigan who was very courteous and helpful.
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#16
Another upvote for PD. I had ordered a charge controller direct from them and also ordered a wizard remote button. They contacted me to let me know that a wizard was already included with the unit, do you really want a second remote? Nice folks. Proactive customer service and no offshore call center.
I have replaced two Magnateks with the PD drop in replacements.
I also have a Boondocker unit that was recommended by a nomad guru on the web, and it has no status light, nor a way to initiate boost phase. I use it, but I have to manually check the amps and volts to see what it is doing. I bought the PD to use in my van. The Boondocker became a spare.
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#17
I'm not really a fan of the Powermax automatic converters, as they only hold 14.4 or 14.6v for 15 minutes, then drop back to a lower slower charging voltage.

Powermax does sell adjustable voltage units. My buddy wanted best possible fast charging for a pair of group 31 northstar AGM and we ordered the adjustable 100 amp unit from bestconverter.

When it arrived we tested it and it would only do 75 amps hooked to two 31s depleted to under 50%. Did not have the same dimensions as the 100 amp unit on the website. yet proudly had the 100 amp sticker.

Called Randy at best converter who tried to tell me that the batteries could never accept that much anyway and all was fine and I basically cursed him out. My single group 27 northstar can accept over 100 amps when depleted and he was saying 2 larger batteries could not? It was obviously a 75 amp unit with a 100 amp sticker. I was seething.

Turned into a shitshow but eventually the larger 100 amp adjustable unit arrived and did provide 97 amps, the missing amps likely due to low input voltage from having to use a questionable extension cord. These are PFC but basically fully load a 15 amp household circuit so crappy extension cords are likely past their rating.

In 2015 I was not sure whether the PD's came with a remote wizard or not and had a friend order one just in case. Now Have an Extra. PD does offer 14.8v units instead of the 14.4v absorption.

if one is needing fast as possible recharges, or using a generator to recharge, a charging source that can seek and hold mid to high 14's is much much more effective than one that does not.

Another acquaintenance had a 45 amp WfCO fail, i replaced it with an Iota with shorter thicker wiring to his batteries. He came back from his next outing saying it was the first time he did not wake up to a screaming inverter low voltag alarm.

I still have the heatsink from the Wfco, and retasked its fan for a few years until it too failed.
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#18
Sternwake,
I'm not sure that you were the source that mentioned Boondocker.
I do see 14.7VDC coming out, so it does that, and it does put out a lot of amps. I do see the Boondocker putting out 21-32 amps right away, after about 15-25 minutes tapering down to <1 amp. It works. I just needed a status light to reassure me in 2015. At the time I wasn't good enough to handle a Boondocker.
I was electrically frustrated and challenged in 2015, because I was in NJ-PA, living in the humid forests, trying to use solar in marginal conditions, meanwhile not living within my amphour means.
Migrating in November 2015 to lower slower Nevada made my solar much more productive, leaving the only thing left to adjust was my amphour usage and to develop better knowledge.
Anyway, I was referring to the guy that looks like Karl Marx, or Santa Claus, depending on your POV.
I meant no offense to you and would not have made the off hand remark in that case.
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#19
No worries , i did not take it like that, just wanted to elaborate.

Ive only ever recommended their adjustable voltage units in The past for that manual adjustable factor. And their power factor correction. If one needs 3 or 4 stage automatic ive always preferred progressive dynamic converters. Even though they are not PFC. and are a few amps shy of their amperage rating once they warm up.

My link to 'best converter' was despite the bait and switch of the 100 amp vs 75 amp unit. Id prefer to think that was an honest mistake and a so called professional revealing his ignorance. There is also not much of an option if one wants 100 amps of dc charger and adjustable voltage for under 250$.
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#20
I just want to point out the often overlooked cargo aspect of picking your gear...

I have a 2800w MSW inverter that has a 90Amp charger built in plus a transfer switch too.
It also weighs 90 pounds.
Lots of copper in this anchor !
(I forget the brand but it came out of one of those high end diesel pusher rigs.)
stay tuned 
popeye


 Weirdo Overlord : FMS Fleet Ops , Awards , Badges ,  aka Tamerlane the Impaler Mod.
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