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Cargo trailer suggestions
Looks like I'll be in the market for a enclosed trailer to pull behind my UHaul.
Having zero experience with towing I need some advice.
What length and width, single or dual axle? Advantages? Lots to choose from used and new all around my location. 

A 6 x 12 with added side door and room on the tongue for propane tank would be nice.
Interior is to be used to work out of, carpentry tools, and storage, lots of storage. Not living space. I plan on this being parked at a relatives driveway 90% of the time. So 1500 miles a year roughly. At least the initial plan.

I need to find the towing weight of the truck and existing hitch capacity which I haven't looked for yet. I know that will help.
Your thoughts are welcome.
Update on truck specs, 

·      Empty Weight: 5,700 lbs.
·      Gross vehicle weight: 8,600 lbs.
·      Gross combined vehicle rating: 13,000 lbs.
·      Hitch rating: 6,000 lbs.
  • Transmission: Tow/Haul Mode With External Transmission Oil Cooler
In my experience, the shorter they are the worse they tow, and the harder to back up.

If you're carrying lots of weight, I'd get the dual axle.

Also get sides that extend out over the wheel wells, lots of extra space without any added width.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Handy_Dan for this post:
  • Matlock (08-08-2018)
If you're going to load it up with tools and work out of it, I would suggest tandem axle and about 7x14. You will need to add a brake controller if the truck doesn't have that.

For more room on the tongue get a flat or curved nose, and/or order one with an extended tongue. 

Flat roofs are easier to install vent fans and solar panels, but a barrel roof will shed rain and snow better, less likely to leak. 

Try to buy one that has EZ lube or similar hubs, and tube framing on 16" centers. You will probably want plywood paneling for the interior rather than luan paneling. 

A ramp door is my preference but it depends on your use...barn doors are preferred by some people. 

If it's mainly used for storage and work, you will probably want the 'bar-lock' style side door.

Used trailers are not much cheaper than new, unless they are in bad shape. I would suggest buying new. Then you get a warranty for not much more money. But dont expect much 'wiggle' room on trailers...often the price stated is about as low as they will go. 

And finally, white trailers don't get quite as hot inside on sunny days!
Wondering about Wandering.
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to tx2sturgis for this post:
  • Cammalu (08-08-2018), Matlock (08-08-2018)
I can’t remember what make of trailer it was but one gal went through a nightmare with a new one she bought. It was over on CVRL.

I don’t know the good brands from the bad brands but someone here should be able to let you know which ones to stay away from. They sure aren’t all created equal.
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to Cammalu for this post:
  • Matlock (08-08-2018), GypsyDogs (08-10-2018)
I always opt for dual axle. It's a bit safer when you have a blow out on the trailer going 70 mph down the highway. In fact with a dual axle, you don't even always notice a blow out right away, you'll def notice on a single axle the very second it happens.

The shorter the trailer the harder it is to back up.....hard isn't really the right word as it gets pretty easy backing them up after a bit.....but the short ones turn out of position very quickly and require more re-adjusting than longer ones. (continually going from forward to reverse to get it aligned right when backing into a space) I think 7x14 is about an ideal size for what you described.

You'll definitely want one with brakes and a brake controller installed in your van so the brakes on the trailer work.

And I recommend getting a trailer with dexter brand axles. They're the benchmark in the industry as far as quality goes and parts are readily available country wide should you need them down the road. And my theory is if the manufacturer is willing to put a top shelf axle in, then the rest of the build quality is probably pretty good too.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Everyroadleadshome for this post:
  • Matlock (08-08-2018)
As I put together a list of requirements, wish list, everyone's thoughts and experience really helps.

I'm sold on a Dexter tandem with brakes and controller on a 7x14 trailer. 
16" tube frame centers.
Ramp door and side door, with bar locks.
EZ lube axle bearings.
Flat roof, I'd rather have a rounded roof for mid-west snow but will most likely want roof solar so...
And vent fans would be easier too.
Has to be white frp or aluminum. I don't want screwed panels unless they are stainless.
V or rounded front, don't know yet.

Springs, leaf or ?
Getting closer to my ideal trailer. Big question is who makes these?
I've looked at the Interstate website. Anyone other than those folks?

Is this possible for under $8k? I don't know enough to walk into a distributor/dealer and my timeline is 3 months out.

Thank you for your time.
I think those EZ lube bearings are called Bearing Buddies.  Even the expensive ones are fairly inexpensive so if it was me, I'd do them myself and save a ton of money.  Having a trailer dealer install them might end up costing you a few hundred dollars with mark-up and labor.  They are simple to install.

A V nose might help your mpg and give you a little extra room for something like a sink or porta potty that would normally just protrude and take up valuable long storage space. I personally prefer a Timbren suspension over axles but that's just because I like the added ground clearance with not having axles running the width of my trailer. If my plans to convert my utility trailer into a camper would have become reality I would have replaced the axle with Timbren suspension. A little pricey and they do make this type of suspension for dual axle conversions.

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(08-09-2018, 07:09 AM)Motrukdriver Wrote: I think those EZ lube bearings are called Bearing Buddies.

Bearing Buddies are an add-on mainly for boat trailers. I personally don't recommend them for normal cargo trailer usage. Of course, some people swear by them.

I use one as a bearing packing tool ONLY. Then I remove it and replace with the factory supplied end cap.

EZ-Lube or Super-Lube hubs are different. They have an actual grease passageway (machined in at the factory) leading into the inner bearing thru the spindle. This means you can use a normal grease gun, and pump grease thru the entire hub and both inner and outer bearings while simply spinning the wheel slowly.

It saves dissembling the entire hub to fully service both bearings on each hub.
Wondering about Wandering.
The main advantage to screwless (meaning glued) exterior is because graphics and decals can be added without leaving obvious 'bumps' where the screwheads are. Primarily a cosmetic upgrade.

Not normally a concern for most of us here. I prefer screwed but there are pros and cons either way.

Tube framing is much stronger than z-post, c-post or h-post framing. But it costs more, of course.

As far as rubber torsion axles, (axle-less etc), alignment on those is critical and has to be 100% correct or you will wear out your trailer tires rapidly. Some of these have no way to adjust them if, or after, they are welded to the frame. And these also give up some on-road manners in favor of off-road articulation. 

Straight axles are much easier to align, tandem or single...meaning the factory will probably get it right. Drop axles have very little ground clearance and are not common on normal small enclosed cargo trailers. 

IF you plan to off-road into the back country, on rutted two-tracks, then yes, by all means, go with timbren or equivalent. This would be primarily on a single axle trailer. Tandem axle trailers dont lend themselves to rugged off-roading unless you have to carry a LOT of weight into the boonies AND the trailer is set up properly for it, meaning big tires and high ground clearance, and good approach and departure angles. Torsion, timbren, axle-less etc axles in tandem can also be damaged by heavy cargo loads during very sharp turns, especially when backing up.

But for mostly pavement use, straight axles are fine. Especially for a storage/work trailer that will be sitting in a driveway most of the time.

Simply put, it's all a matter of picking your poison and opening that wallet!

Wondering about Wandering.

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