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How To Clean Water Tank ?.
#21
TX's got a good point especially if you are in the SW where there are more places with bad water( that will suck even in a brand new tank) than places with good tasting water.

I'd want clean-er water just for showers though....

You'll be buying gallons to drink in those places anyway.

Reverse osmosis or super filters . Colorado or Yuma. AM or FM ????? <<<<Scratch that last one <<<<

Lots of options , yup lots of options.........OOOOOOOOOOOOH AYUH .
stay tuned 
popeye


 Weirdo Overlord : FMS Fleet Ops , Awards , Badges ,  aka Tamerlane the Impaler Mod.
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#22
(05-31-2018, 06:36 PM)rvpopeye Wrote: Well , it does only cost a few cents for the bleach and whatever for the water....

How many gallons is the tank ?

A cup would be enough for a hundred gallons , that's what I had in my class A.

That would be like shooting it a few times all at once wouldn't it?

You're on the right track Shadow ,, you'll know when it's clean enough for YOU !
You are the one using it right ?


Bleach the hose too , if you don't already have one get a white potable water hose and bleach that one .
Use a half cup in a gallon and pour it in the hose , attach the ends together and wiggle it around to slosh the whole inside , wait , drain and rinse when you fill the tank.

I also keep a spray bottle with bleach and spray the faucet with it making sure to get some way up inside.
(Ya never know if the last dumper used it to rinse his dump hose , YES PEOPLE , i HAVE SEEN IT HAPPEN ! , ya can't fix stupid............ )

AND get one of those cheap Camco activated charcoal filters at Wally's and always use it right after the faucet to keep stuff outa the hose as well as your tank..

I don`t know exactly how big the water tank is, some were around thirty five to forty gallons.
I didn`t drain the tank when I got home today, it was raining pretty hard, so the tank will soak for another day.

I will do the bleach soak and flush probably two more times just to be sure everything in the water system is dead
and flushed out as much as possible. I`m sure its over kill, but it can`t hurt

I do plan to get one of those charcoal filters that screws on to the hose.

And yes, I am the one using it.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to shadow for this post:
  • rvpopeye (05-31-2018)
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#23
(05-31-2018, 08:20 AM)Snikwahjm Wrote: Popeye, he wants to shoot it more than once to make sure it’s dead...

Yes I do, I plan on bleaching and flushing the water tank at least two more times.
Its probably over kill, but it can`t hurt.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to shadow for this post:
  • rvpopeye (05-31-2018)
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#24
I got the water tank drained. I removed the plug on the hot water heater and used the water pump to drain the water
tank through the hot water tank. I did it this way because the drain valve on the water tank is so small and it drains so slow,
that it would take hours for the water tank to drain.

If I had easy access to the water tank I would replace the water tank drain valve with something a lot better.
The water tank is located under the bed at the back of the rv, so you have to remove the bed and part of the mattress
platform just to get to the water tank, not that easy at all. I will probably just do it anyway, I hate things like this that are
done half assed like this.

I will refill the water tank with water/bleach tomorrow and let it soak for a day, drain it and flush it out with fresh water.
I will also get a Camco charcoal water filter, so I can filter the water going into the water tank. My local hardware store
has the Camco charcoal water filters, so I will get one tomorrow.

I also need to drain the tanks so I can replace the gate valves. Not a job I`m looking forward to doing.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
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#25
I refilled the water tank this morning, I hit it hard this time though, I used almost two cups of bleach for this last flush and ran
it through all of the lines. I will leave it in the tank over night and flush it all out tomorrow

I still need to replace the water tank drain valve, but not looking forward to doing that.
I will have to remove the bed and part of the bed platform to see if I can even get to the water tank drain line.
I will some how get it done, I can`t leave it half assed the way it is now.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
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#26
I got busy doing other things on the rv today, and didn`t get a chance to drain the water tank.
So I`m going to let it soak all week long with the bleach/water in the water tank.
Next weekend I will drain the water tank and see what I can do about replacing the drain valve.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
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#27
I started the job of replacing the water tank drain valve on Saturday.
I removed the mattress and the piece of plywood that covered the water tank.
   
   
Once I had the plywood cover off of the water tank, I found the first problem.
   
I had enough plumbing parts on hand to correctly fix this problem.
   
Once I got the overflow hose fixed, it was on to the water tank drain valve.
Getting to the water tank drain line was not easy, I couldn`t really get my hand
in there, and I had to use some very long screw drivers to reach the hose clamp
and the retainers that held the drain line in place.
   
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
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#28
This is the old water tank drain valve.
   
I finally got the old drain line and valve out.
   
After getting the old drain valve and line out, I removed the old drain valve
and installed the new valve. I also replaced the short piece of flexible rubber
tubing on the other end. This picture isn`t very clear.
   
   
   
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
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#29
   
I forgot to get a picture of the new drain valve, I will do that tomorrow.
2001 Phoenix Cruiser 2300B.        
On A Ford E350 Chassis.

Full time since 10-12-18
Reply
#30
(05-29-2018, 04:24 AM)Cammalu Wrote: In addition to the bleach you need to take the diode bar out of your water heater and flush it all out.  I’ve seen a lot of crud settle in there.  You probably need to replace that diode if you haven’t done it in awhile anyway - they are cheap.
Camm - I think you're talking about the aluminum anode rod that works as a sacrificial part that will corrode instead of the steel etc inside the water heater. 
Also when changing this rod a person should shoot pressurized water into the open hole when the rod is out to remove as much of the calcium deposits that will reduce the efficiency of the water heater.  

The anode rods I use are made by Camco and are available on Amazon, RV parts places, and sometimes even Walmart.  But usually in the $10-15 dollar range. Should clean or replace this rod at least once a year is recommended.
#NomadLivesMatter  
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