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rigrunner 12v outlet
#1
which one of these would you electro folk get

a-https://www.ebay.com/itm/ElectroResales-...0005.m1851

b-https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-45A-Ande...961899180?

c-https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-45A-Ande...0005.m1851


the factory ones are fairly expensive https://www.google.com/search?q=rigrunne...09&bih=699
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#2
If you don't need the voltmeter save $5.

If the lucite and vertical orientation are OK for you save $6 more.

All seem fine otherwise.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to John61CT for this post:
  • frater secessus (12-03-2017)
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#3
You are only going to have 4 12 volt circuits?
  [Image: 414097000.jpg]
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#4
i have many 12v circuits,i have a bluesea 12 circuit fuse box by the batteries behind the passenger's seat,i ran a run across the floor for a light and waterpump and a run for one of these for 12v gadget plugin.i wont do ciggy and since there is no standardization for 12v i am going to go powerpoles and i can fuse these boxes to whatever gadgets i use,seems like a good idea instead of running multiple 8 foot runs for each gadget,fan,tv,whatever

would voltmeter give me a quick look at the health of my batteries ?
one of the factory ones has a couple usb which would probably come in handy but cost to much for me
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#5
I believe I'd be running separate wires for each use and combine where I can like lights.  Easier to trouble shoot when something quits working.  I don't think that volt meter would give you much on the battery health, more like you have this many volts going to that fuse block.  I think you need a battery monitor for that like one of those Trimetric units.  Kinda pricey things.

https://www.solar-electric.com/bogart-en...nitor.html

HandyBob talks a lot about them and I'm sure GotSmart will give you the skinny on how to monitor battery health.  I need to read more about them to better understand what they do.  Have you read the ramblings of HandyBob? Grumpy old fella but lots of good information on his blog.
  [Image: 414097000.jpg]
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  • bLEEp (12-02-2017), Blacktank (12-02-2017)
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#6
The voltmeter's distance from the batteries, and the current passing through the circuit between battery, fuse and then the fuse panel, will determine how well it represents voltage at the battery terminals.

Light loads and the voltage will be fairly close to actual battery terminal voltage
Heavy loads and there will be a lot of voltage drop and the voltmeter will read much lower than actual battery voltage

Voltage at the battery terminals is what one wants to display, not the voltage further downstream, but if the wire is thick and the load light there will be little difference.

How voltage represents battery state of charge is of limited usefullness.
If a simple display is wanted, I recommend knowinng how many amps are flowing at that voltage,

12.2v at the battery terminals under no load is much different than 12.2v at 10 amps of load. With out knowing the load on the battery, Then knowing the voltage only, is misleading in the extreme.

This is a simple voltmeter/Ammeter One simply slides a single battery cable through the ring terminal. I have one and its voltage was 0.2v off and not able to be calibrated. however the Ammeter reads very closely with my other ammeters and I only want it to display amps anyway. Other owners report the voltmeter to be accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDQM6Z4/ref...rd_w=l9Tlu

it only has a 0.2amp resolution though.

If one really wants to always see voltage and watch it rise when charging and fall under discharge, then go for more than tenths of a volt, go for two decimal places, hundredths of a volt.

This one has 3 decimal places. These are very simple to install cleanly.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Volt...+voltmeter

E bay might have them cheaper.

The shunted amp hour counting battery monitors are not required. Watching how many amps are flowing and how much voltage the battery is maintaining, One can develop a knowledge of where the battery is.

Watching how many amps a charging battery is accepting at absorption voltage, is very indicative of state of charge, the less the amps the mroe charged.

Watch a few cycles, see how long it takes to get a 12.2v rested reading, or lowest morning voltage before solar or other charging sources are applied.

When you turn on any load, watch how much the voltmeter drops when it is fully charged, vs depleted to some unknown degree.

One can develop a good idea of where the battery is at by noticing trends and tendencies of voltage. this is most easily learned by watching voltage fall under loads during discharge, and how many amps the battery is accepting at what voltage when charging.

KNowing when the battery is true full is also kind of important. With flooded batteries the hydrometer is the battery polygraph. With AGM one needs an ammeter, and one needs to be able to hold the battery at absorption voltage, and hold it at absorption voltage until amps taper to 0,5% of the capacity of the battery, 0.5 amps for a 100AH battery.

The Shunted battery monitors are great, when they are wired up properly, set up properly, and rezeroed occassionally. The person who can do this well, can also make an accurate guess as to state of charge, if they are regularly looking at just a voltmeter and an ammeter.

The shunted AH counters are nice when one simply does not want to bother, but too many people put 100% faith in them and the hydrometer will often prove that although the trimetric says 100%, Specific gravity is not in teh 1.270 range on all cells.

I use 45 amp anderson powerpoles on just about everything that will not pass more than 40 amps.
I install 45 amp powerpoles in this device or one of its many clones:

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Precision...9MN8KFPQ1Q.

While these come with 12awg wire, i have replaced it to the shunt and circuit board with 8awg to handle 40 continuous amps. I would not pass more than 25 amps continuous through this wattmeter with the 12awg, unless the short wires have forced ventilation over them.
8 awg gets warm passing 40 amps for an hour, 12awg gets really hot.

Gary, if you have a square file and a drill, you can make your own powerpole fuse panel in some plastic/wood/acrylic/metal.

I actually like having some loose wire with a powerpole on it, as when they stick straight out of a panel, with 10AWG, there can be a lot of stress on the plastic housings. I have broken the housings, and it is not always obvious when they are compromised, but not completely broken.
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  • rvpopeye (12-02-2017), Blacktank (12-02-2017)
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#7
(12-01-2017, 10:49 PM)Motrukdriver Wrote: I believe I'd be running separate wires for each use and combine where I can like lights.  Easier to trouble shoot when something quits working.  I don't think that volt meter would give you much on the battery health, more like you have this many volts going to that fuse block.  I think you need a battery monitor for that like one of those Trimetric units.  Kinda pricey things.

https://www.solar-electric.com/bogart-en...nitor.html

HandyBob talks a lot about them and I'm sure GotSmart will give you the skinny on how to monitor battery health.  I need to read more about them to better understand what they do.  Have you read the ramblings of HandyBob? Grumpy old fella but lots of good information on his blog.


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#8
Advantage of a voltmeter out at the consumer end is to see if there is a significant voltage drop especoally when a high amp load cycles on.

Over time as you get fsmiliar with your unique setup you may get a feel fo guessing where your bank SoC is.

But no way is it anything accurate like a proper SoC meter.
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  • Blacktank (12-02-2017)
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#9
i ordered the black one without the meter,while the one with the meter would of gave me some numbers the prospect of an unwanted night light was the killer

the seller/maker didnt have message turned on so i couldnt ask questions so when i get it i will pop the top and see what gauge of wire is inside but he goes by the crazy ham and my experience is that ham/radio/sound people are anal about connections so should be good
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#10
Yes, and some of their gear can pull lots of amps.

Plus lots of sales + the high rating, eBay gaurantee, should be fine
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