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That really looks neat but I think it might be heavy.
monkeyfoot
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• Motrukdriver (05-12-2018)
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Probably heavier than the vinyl planks but lighter than hardwood since it is pine. I might could cut it to 5/8" instead of 3/4" to save a little weight. Just thought it looked pretty cool.
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Uh....no.
Trailer floors always have relative movement, bending, twisting, vibrations, curving.
It'd be a lot of work, and either the pieces would loosen, or break if cut too thin. If too thick, then you have more weight, and they would still loosen up.
Great idea in a sticks and bricks tho...show us some pics when its done!
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sikaflex would hold it down and let it flex
every 1/4" of interior headroom is at a premium
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• Motrukdriver (05-13-2018)
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Holding the pieces to the floor is one thing, but keeping the adhesive in the gaps (between the blocks) bonded and stable, is the problem.
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05-12-2018, 11:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-12-2018, 11:13 PM by sternwake.)
Heck, i see lots of possibilities with that arrangement, and since it is endgrain it would be more dent resistant and only really needs to be 1/8" thick.
Screw the grout. Run all the lumber throuh a tablesaw and jointer so all the boards are the same dimension have perfectly square corners. No gaps, No grout. Sikaflex or some other adhesiive it to a 1/4 inch piece of Luan/plywood underlayment, and then many many coats of polyurethane whih will soak quite deep into the endgrain and be very hard. Would look awesome and be tons more durable than the craptastic fake wood snap together laminated wood I used some 11 years ago, and likely no heavier.
I'd orient the rectangles to go diagonally so no seam fell into a valley, because of my van's floor ribs and valleys. I used no subfloor with my flooring run side to side instad of front to back, but I should have placed some seams more strategically, and perhaps used some wood glue in the seams as they get wet and they swell.
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Cool ideas!! That’s what I might do. Thanks!
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