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A Large Fetch
#1
A rather large and powerful storm has passed under Tasmania, and moved North into the Tazman sea, turbocharging the large swell it already generated while in the Southern Ocean.  These powerful SW  winds and groundswell are basically pointing at Fiji.  En route, unstoppable.

Fiji is the home of Thundercloud reef, also called Cloudbreak, and is one of the best surfable waves on the planet.  Very Blue, very long rides with wide open barrells.  It can handle surf from 2 foot to 20foot+.  They do not know just how big it really can handle but the biggest yet observed is among the biggest waves surfed on Planet earth. 

A huge percentage of the world's best big wave surfers are there already, or en route.

The last time a swell in this size and power range was headed towards Cloudbreak, was 2012.  This swell  happened to coincide with the world surf tour being there for the contest.  It wound up being so big and unruly, that they put the contest on Hold.  But like now, many of the worlds best big wave riders had made the trek there.

After they called the contest off, the unfavorable wind, turned favorable. The contest sponsor, Volcom, who had all the broadcasting equipment there to stream it via internet to the world, kept the camera and broadcasting equipment rolling despite the lack of a contest as the swell was still growing and as it peaked.  What went down was truly awe inspiring to watch.

There are No buoys in Fiji to measure swell size or period.

This epic swell was estimated at 13ft at 18-19 second intervals.  The longer interval the faster the swell is moving and the larger it will be when it feels shallower water.

The forcasted swell currently in route is estimated to be 13 to 15  feet at 18 seconds when it arrives.

So it could be larger and more spectacular than the epic swell of 5 years ago.

This year, they cancelled the Fiji Contest and moved it to Indonesia, so this time the world tour surfers, only a few of which are really capable of handling waves this huge, will not be there.

I'd love to be on a boat in the channel.  Way out of my League, but I can dream and mindsurf.

In the following clip, at the 4 minute mark, a huge mutant wave came through at the very peak of the swell and nearly mowed everyone down.  It went unridden, but afterwards the surfers out there claimed that they could smell the reef, and that they were getting bitten by some fort of sealice which lived deep on the reef ad were churned up by what might have been the biggest most powerful wave to pass over the reef in quite some time.

Keep in mind the white surfboard getting sucked over at the 4:10 mark, is 10 foot long:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...D4O8rD057Y

Here is another large swell from 2011 with some excellent footage too:
Action starts at the 3 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...nlstsUMquo

I am looking forward to seeing footage of the swell en route, and hope No surfer loses their life.  One almost did there, not too long ago on a day only about 60% the size of this current swell.

While this same swell will actually reach California, the many Islands between the Tasman Sea and here soak up much of the swell energy, but in a week's time that same swell will arrive here, much decayed, but still slightly overhead on the larger sets.

Looking forward to greeting it.
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#2
Crazy! But cool!
Beast Master,JunkyMonkey,Drinks with Wolves,Fup'd Duck,Sheriff Ricochet Cockroach 4B's 1 cluster,3 TFMS
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#3
Wow! Watching those vids makes me sorry that I never went to watch while I lived in Hawaii. I lived a mile or so from the pipeline and never once went to watch... my bad ☹️
monkeyfoot
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#4
That gnarliness is the balls !
I envy you ability to play with the big kids , lately , my beach days are usually spent at low tide with my metal detector ! Rolleyes
Stay Tuned
rvpopeye



Weirdo Overlord  YARC
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#5
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjS1Qv7j23W/

Looks like the swell was not overhyped.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjR2WPABHoI/...uifontaine

if one could actually convert all the energy in that wave to electricity, I wonder how many KWH it would produce.
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#6




heck no direct paste.

HereConfused a link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...n8kCV3AO5w
 
Wahta wuss, he could have been 35 feet deeper in the pit and still made it.
Just kidding, I've gunned it for the safety of the shoulder on waves a fraction of this size and would not leave the boat on a day like this, unless I was stage 4 or something
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#7
Looks like great fun.
monkeyfoot
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#8
(05-27-2018, 02:47 PM)sternwake Wrote: ... I wonder how many KWH it would produce.


Kilowatts!? HA!!!

1.21 GIGAWATTS!

[Image: 7209a3290c2202b3ba4a2c63aeaffca3.jpg]

How much longer until the swell shows up in SoCal?
YARC : Drunk in the Mud/Keeper of the Dingy/Ears [Image: L3000.gif]/Potluck Contributions Restricted
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#9
They say the 20+ second periods should show up on Friday.

Swells from this region have much of their energy soaked up by the many islands/atolls between here and there. The good Sets will likely be infrequent. There can also be times where it seems like there is no swell and other times where it seems to be pumping, then it just shuts off.

I think the last fairly major Tazman sea originated swell in 2012 i wound up getting so frustrated that I paddled into the beach after waiting an hour long wait in what seemed like a lake.

Our better Southern Hemi swells are generated on the other side of New Zealand. Antarctica is kind of like Jupiter's great red spot in how it can spawn powerful storms year round. The southern Ocean's powerful storms can cover huge expanses of ocean, but the best swells( for northern hemisphere) need to have those storms travel northward over the swell it already generated, a captured fetch over a previously agitated sea state.

In our summer we often get a lot of infrequent energy from powerful storms that hugged the Sea Ice with their winds mostly pointed at Southern Chile. They were powerful enough that some energy still propogated this way from angular spreading. These can make for nice surprises when they show up out of seemingly nowhere. One can be surfing thigh high driibble and out of nowhere a head high set will show up.

Hard to be in position for these though, and seeing one, missing it, and waiting outside for another is often a lesson in futility. Often this suits the older crew of out of shape longboarders who will claim any such wave, just fine, doubling the futility factor.

These last two N hemi Summers, the SE Pacific had most of the storm activity with a serious lack of powerful storms in the SW Pacific, making the swell angles too steep for much of Southern California, most of which need some westerly component to those souths.

We also hope for pulses of energy from tropical systems off of Mexico, but these need to be past 118 degrees west with a northerly directional component or most of their swell energy travels on by. Northern Orange county can get swells with an easterly component, but I pretty much despise driving up there or even driving anywhere north or south for slightly better waves. It can be waist high and inconsistent here, and nearly double overhead up there on a 170 degree swell.

With surf forecasting being pretty accurate, and data from Buoys indicating swell size, period and direction, everybody can know where to go, and the crowds are usually out of control when one general area is going to be a focal spot, and during SSE swells, that is Northern Orange county which is just too close to LA for me.
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