Vandweller Forum

let's try to keep chit chat down and answer beginner questions/tutorial 


renogy 100w

how do i test this? have multimeter

going to be a portable,have 10 gauge wire, get a couple mc4 connectors or switch to power poles?

raw wire into the charge controller or is there a terminal needed?

What are the DC amps ranges on the dial ?
10 amps or more ?

The connectors are up to you ,,,,but
(you already have the powerpoles and I have some 30amp ones you can have back too.....)

10 amp on the meter

pretty sure chopping the connectors off would void any warranty

connectors:
If the panel meest specs that is IMO not an issue.

The panel specs should be on the sheet that came it.

VOC =open circuit voltage (~22.5?)
set to lowest range above expected voltage +to+ and - to -

ISC=amps short circuit (~6amps?)
set to the 10 DC amp range ? does it have 20?
(hook up may vary from meter to meter ,,, maybe post a close up pic of the meter?? or look at the directions........)


(All measured in full direct OH sunlight , output a little higher if it's COLD )

l almost forgot the controller
bare wires should be the method ,,,,,, unless it isn't

For a few dollars more get a fuse inline.

(09-10-2018, 07:32 PM)GotSmart Wrote: [ -> ]For a few dollars more get a fuse inline.

fuse on the panel or controller side?
what about controller to battery?

I did both.

I didn't feel there was enough power on the panel side to worry about a fuse. If it shorted, what would it be harming?

Certainly on the battery side.

You could use any connector you like, if you're worried about warranty just get two MC 4 and connect those to whatever connector you feel would work.

And a power pole is just a forklift charging connector?

Why are you testing it it is under warranty? I just assumed that mine were working, and they were.

Your renogy controller will show amperage the panel is delivering into a depleted battery. Expect about 5 to 5.5 amps in full sun on a 100 watt panel around noon panel aimed at sun. The display is kind of clunky.

If you want to keep the MC4 connectors and the warranty, then you need a a MC4 extension cable.

For a while i just stuffed bare stripped wire into the MC4 connectors, used some tape to hold them in place.

A fuse between panel and controller is more useful as a way to disconnect, the 10AWg provided can dead short 6 amps and never melt the wire insulation and generally you fuse 10awg for 30 amps.

The meter will have its own fuse inside when hooking it up to read amperage.

i've actually never hooked up a panel shorted with a digital multimeter ammeter inbetween.

Most meters one has to move the negative test lead to another port to read amperage

BEWARE, that after measuring for amperage, one can release the magic smoke from the meter when testing for voltage if they do not move that plug to back to the other port.

The solar controller will say to fuse between it and battery.

RTFM !!

if it only puts out 6 amps and my wire is 30 amps something is going to pop before a 30 amp fuse so i can skip the fuse between the panel and controller?

ordered some 3m 3/8 ring terminals for the battery connection,so just need a battery and i have all the parts