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The Lifetime warrantied Alternator
If I were in a hurry I would have just used the steel nuts provided and been up and running in a half hour. The weather dictates my Pace and it appears a worthy swell will be generated off the Florida coast by this weekend.

The pure m6 nuts I found online have a 10MM hex head and will likely be loose and wobbly on the output stud, meaning less thread strength and less contact area between nut threads and stud threads.

The copper nuts I will make will be tightly fitting on theoutput stud and have no less than a 12mm head for maximum surface contact between stud and nut and then nut and ring terminal(s) for best possible electrical and heat transfer.

This output stud, had I just used the steel nuts, would represent by far, the most restrictive part of my whole alternator charging circuit, probably by a factor of 10 or more..

This bottleneck resistance likely heats the stud and its base and rectifier plate well beyond what it should be seeing and could easily attribute to an alternator's premature demise.

Once my copper nuts are made and in place, that bottleneck will be completely gone and the most resistive parts will be the fusible link on the Factory charging circuit and the 150 amp circuit breaker on the parallel pathway to the battery.

Once complete my homemade copper nuts and ring terminal interface should help to even keep the rectifier plate and its diodes cooler, not only by eliminating a huge amount of resistance at thge interface, but by the transferring heat up the length of the wires by the second best material available to do so.

Almost any Nut would be better than a steel nut, but I'm aiming for the best possible conductor, short of pure silver.

If anyone's got an issue with that, please use the ignore button, or just skip my posts entirely, because I will always go beyond 'just fine' in my endeavors. Always.
then go all the way,stop by a couple banks and ask if they have a franklin or 1964 kennedy half dollar,they are 90% silver,jewelry or coin shop will have .999 silver,they will want market price were a bank can only charge face value of 0.50 cents,half ounce should be around $9 plus a couple 4 premium, melt it down to form and tap/die and start filing

us dimes,quarters,halves 1964 and older,peace and morgan dollars are 90% silver,british has sterling coins 92% and american silver eagles are .999% but go for $20+ but should be able to get 1/2 oz ingot at jewelry and coin shops,maybe 1/4 o is all you need

silver price at the moment $17.93 a oz

if you were close i would flip you a couple silver quarters and  dimes
Its that Kraken guy....ruffling my feathers. Wink

Today's process went pretty smoothly. but for the misplacement of my 13mm star socket.  The copper heatsink needed little pursuasion to fit tightly inside a socket, which then made drilling and tapping much easier.

Barely hit 60f in Central Florida today, locals wearing more than would an Alaskan in winter.

A 304 SS washer holds the Bakelite protective coller in place.  This collar was madeto fit better to alternator endcap, and opened up slightly inside to accept larger ring terminals.

A regular steel m6 Jam nut, of half thickness holds the SS collar tight to collar and collar tightly to alternator endcap

A pure copper m6 threaded square nut, which fits nicely inside a 9/16 star socket, clamps atop the Steel jam nut

Then stack ring terminals, and I'll compress them tightly with a steel nut and washer, then remove the steel nut
Then the copper heatsink topnut torqued atop the compresed ring terminals
Then a steel jam nut, perhaps thicker regular m6 nut atop that with a dab of thread locker.

Even if copper nut  threads strip, the mechanical and electrical conneection will still be solid and low resistance, and removal at some point down the road, would just be a bit more work

[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • Scott7022 (01-22-2020)
To my chagrin and embarassment,
I was buttoning up some wiring yesterday from inside the van yesterday, when it started raining, and then drips started falling directly on alternator.

Turns out when i replaced my windshield wiper motor, the original thick gasket refused to seal properly. Should not be too difficult to remedy. but I should have actually tested it for leakage, and would have been able to avoid this expense of money and labor.

Fellow dodge owner's!! Take note, and see if after a rainstorm when parked, if the alternator is wet.

So the stuck brush theory was likely correct, as it sat for 3 weeks unstarted, through many rain events, just before it failed, and perhaps why I had issues with stuck brushes on my Hvac blower motor, twice.

I can likely easily fix old alternator, but now have a supposedly better Alternator with much better connections to and from it than before.

The Old alternator will likely replace my useless AC compressor, which has just been a pulley for 15+ years, but that project is way down the list as new mounting brackets needs to be fabricated for it.

I'll have both alternators on their own adjustable voltage regulator, and use one or the other, and both together, only when I need more than one alternator can make, which is a not a frequent event with my current battery capacity.
i use black rtv on all the firewall holes,when your really bored take of the wiper cowl and make sure it is draining good and seal up everything,mine was plugged up with debris behind the wheel wells and would fill up and leak from every screw in the engine compartment
I had a silicone collapsible dog bowl that was turned into a new gasket, and I had a tube of black rtv on hand. Its sealed.

The New ND alternator's output at hot idle is absolutely pathetic, barely above 25 amps.
Very disappointed.

Headlights on, blower motor on low, perhaps fridge compressor running, and it has barely 2 amps extra available for battery charging.

The Chrysler/bosch 50/120, had 10 to 12 amps available for battery charging with blower motor on high, headlamps on at hot idle

Even if they sold me a 40/90 as a 50/120, it is falling well short of 40 amps hot idle.

Have not yet tested for higher rpm output.

Its physically smaller body, likely make it a better eventual swap for the AC compressor.
Gonna rebuild the chrysler/bosch and return it to its original location.
Do you have room for a 250 amp ambo alternator? Plenty of power to spare & not working as hard so should last longer. I haven't changed anything to LED but have a digital panel showing all sorts of info, tach, amps being used, battery voltage, charging amps, O2 info, etc. I use around 15 amps just driving. Once I left the master switch on for a week & it started but was putting out 150 amps but that went down fast.
"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." - Thomas Jefferson
Stock location a large frame alternator will not fit.

Dual alternators will be more than enough. ...that ac compressor bearings wont last forever anyway

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