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Transmission life optimizers?
the guru and wizard are not statis symbols but my way of identifying those who i know know what they are talking about so if there are a few answers to a question newbs and lurkers will take the gurus advice and not random posters

same with the gm th700r4,made to be a light to medium duty transmission which is why gm put them in 4x4's and 3/4-1 ton trucks to blow up,they had a bad rap for the first few years until they were upgraded,now you can get them built to hold up to 6-800hp,nice non electric o/d transmissions,plan to convert my rv to one whenever i get a spare $2500
Did not mean to offend with the smoke/garden hose comment.

One more thing about the A-500 and my Aamco experience. I stopped at one in the Denver area a few months after the rebuild late 2001. Third gear seemed to have developed lot of gear whine climbing grades in Idaho, Utah through Wyoming too.
The manager asked for the receipt which showed the parts list, and was like:
'Yep, Lemme show you something.'

Back in the shop there was a disassembled TX and he showed me a badly worn highly angled cut gear clunking back and forth with little effort by hand, as its bearings got trashed from too much side loading. Third gear was cut on a hard angle, to reduce noise. But this hard angle puts a lot more load on the bearing, which then wears prematurely, allowing ever increasing misalignment and exponential increased wear.

He showed me the part number and diagrams of my new third gear main gear, and then the original, which clearly showed the new part number had perhaps 15 degree angled teeth, whereas the original part was 22 or 23. I am guessing at these degree numbers, just trying to relate their obvious difference.

This less angled gear is louder, but side loads the bearing much less.

I walked out of that shop not having spent a cent, confident that nothing was immediately grenading inside my Tx, but it still had the wrong fluid in it, unbeknownst to me. The torque converter clutch chatter was 9 months away from developing and would never have if they had used the right fluid to begin with.

Before I knew what the VSS was, and out of warranty, I had a shop charge me 125$ for a new VSS on top of diagnostic fees, when my OD started acting funny.

About 10 years later I was significantly less ignorant when OD weirdness started again, and found the code 15 via the key dance, then the VSS, removed it, opened it up, and saw it had obviously already been opened up and glued back together with RTV previously. So I got charged 125 for a part that was never bought. Wish I had asked to see the old part. But perhaps i'll see if the new VSS lasts 10+ years. Kind of doubt it with part quality these days. Perhaps better to view that 125$ part as a 125 part repair of the original as opposed to being ripped off.

The VSS has a spinning magnet, turned by speedo cable, which opens and closes these tiny contacts within, something like 12 times each 360 degrees revolution of the speedo cable. A 5v signal is sent from the engine computer to the VSS, and the rate of these pulses returned to teh ECM from the reed switch tells the ECm how fast the drivetrain is spinning. I found it all wet inside and the reed contacts were apparently all gunked up. I'd cleaned it reinstalled it tried to prevent rain water running down the firewall over it, and had no further issues for a few years. When it started up again and I was missing having overdrive, and it was still clean inside on inspection, I'd stop, open the hood, flick the VSS with my fingers a few times, freeing up the stuck reed switch, then it would usually work properly for that day, perhaps the next too. The finger flick became less and less effective quickly, and I broke down and ordered new. Should of done it sooner.

The key dance is done by turning the key to On, not start, then off three times in a row then leaving it on. The illuminated check engine light will go out, then start flashing, one flash, a pause then 5 faster flashes is a code 15. There is a longer pause after revealing the second digit of the code, and beginning another. Figuring out the pauses is not really intuitive the very first time, but is forever after.

Theres a list of OBD1 Mopar codes all over the internet. Not all codes set off the CEL. Does not hurt to check for unexpected codes when all is well but especially when all is not. I always get a code 53, Failure within the ECM Detected. Its been there since 2005. Its a cardone remanufactured ECM.

Expect to see a code 12, which means the battery has been disconnected withing the last 100 engine starts. I've never not seen this code.
Code 55 means End of codes, expect to always see it, the flashes will stop afterwards.

I know a good deal about throttle body injected B250's from '88 to '92/3, mine is an '89 I am obviously most familiar with. There are slight differences year to year.
If You've got any questions about the Dodge portion of the '88 chassis, Heron or other members with dodge vans in these years,, and I will relate what I know.

One thing you should do is find the engine computer on the firewall directly above the engine to the left somewhat. There are two large connectors, one has 60 small gauge wires and one has 14 wires ranging from 20 to 14 gauge. The weight of this 14 wire connector is prone to breaking the contacts on the circuit board. With time and vibration and heat cycling. Also previous techs could have pierced the wire insulation which allows corrosion inside.

If you have no issues but start fondling this connector, you might induce issues, quicker than they would arise on their own., but perhaps you should insure the weight of those wire bundles is not hanging on those connector faces. If later you start having weird issues with random stalling, the 14 wire connector is the Likely issue. Zip ties exerting pressure on this connector in various orientations, can be a temporary fix, that then lasts years waiting for the worst possible time to screw you. To determine if this is the issue, with key turned on, wiggle the 14 wire connector and see if you hear relays clicking on and off and the idle speed actuator motor engaging when wiggled just so.

I eventually had to open up the ECM, remove all the silicone potting from this connector and cleaned it sterile, both sides, and remelted and added some solder to the base of all 14 pins. That was Feb 2015 iirc, and No ECM related issues since. I was highly uncomfortable taking on that task and was looking to hire someone to do it, but could not find anyone.

Now I look back at it as some of the easier successful soldering I have accomplished.

ECM related issues are a bitch, as the easiest way to diagnose a bad ECM, is with a known functional ECM. Which are not easy to come by.

Reminds me I need to write down the capacitor values on my original ECM. I now feel confident enough in my soldering skills I want to replace each and every capacitor, and then hopefully have a fully functional back up ECM.

A major reason I do not want something newer, is I know pretty much every system on this van well, and have repaired or replaced most of it.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • heron (09-28-2019)
No offence. On my end. But to comment further, yeah usually this rule praise/manipulation was applied to many. For god, queen, and country. Because you're Mommas good little... blah blah blah. My praise was genuine because you help your fellow people, and expend lots of energy writing extremely well written explanations in easy to understand terms and unclouded syntax. Hell IKEA can't do this!

Just a thanks for being a good human. Fiona probably shows you that each day.

I ain't got a dog in this fight. My good friend is an electrical marine engineer and "Scottie don't surf!"

Just thanks dude. I enjoy your writing and spirit. Most of humanity, especially the "smart" ones, make me want to...
"I hate what I do best"
Beast Master,JunkyMonkey,Drinks with Wolves,Fup'd Duck,Sheriff Ricochet Cockroach 4B's 1 cluster,3 TFMS Tempory Weirdo Overlord replacement 
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Scott7022 for this post:
  • sternwake (09-28-2019)
(09-27-2019, 10:30 AM)sternwake Wrote: A simple thanks is inoffensive, but if I want smoke blown up my ass I have a garden hose nearby.

I don't do well with praise, either. But I meant what I said. You have a capacity for noticing, remembering, doing, and sharing the results of same, that I've never had. And I thank you for that.

FWIW, I never blow smoke. If I say it, I mean it.
One gloriously stinkin' badge.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to heron for this post:
  • sternwake (09-28-2019)

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