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Fridge door seals
#21
@ 36 hours, 15.61 Ah consumed, so 4.56 Ah consumed since 12 hours ago. and 0.38Ah consumed each hour over the last 12.

I did lower thermostat to 2.1 of 7 so my milk would not get slushy, it reads 34f back bottom

Average consumption down to 0.43Ah per hour.
70f ambient now and climbing.

This wattmeter has frozen up in the past and stopped counting/measuring anything.
I expect it to happen again, but 36 hours is a pretty good run so far.
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#22
waste not,want not
you can be efficient or spend $10k on a solar system and still not have enough electricity


my fridge is sitting at my nephews house waiting for him to work on it,he does hvac and has 3 small kids so i'm not pressuring him,but i have 2 inch insulation to go around it
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#23
@48 hours, 20.21 ah consumed.
0.42 ah each hour average.

This is better than expected.
Once i glue the D seal corners and finish the third foam seal around door exterior the numbers should improve even more.
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#24
You're starting to get to the point of diminishing returns. Nice hack's.
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
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#25
@60hours, 23.81 ah consumed.

The blue sea boaters claim more.than 4 inches of insulation becomes pointless.

I just wanted a more effective door seal and found some of my intended dead air space on my extra insulation, was not so dead.

The efficacy of these latest improvements is impressive. I thought 0.62 ah each hour was.impressive but am now measuring 2/3 of that, albeit with minimal door openings and somewhat cooler ambient temps.

The door itself is still the weak link but way way better than before. I can actually hang some more insulation over it easily enough and not block the intake vents.

Mission accomplished though.
Ill only finish the 3rd seal and glue the inner d seal corners. If i were really wanting to conserve battery power, I'd turn it upto 39f, and hang some blankets over door.

Making sure the condenser is not bathed in its own heat via proper ventilation, and extra insulation should be incorporated into any cabinet intended to house a front loading fridge when possible, but more solar and battery works too.
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#26
@108 hrs 43.11AH consumed

0.399 AH consumed each hour on average.
Midday highs in mid 70's
overnight lows low 60's perhaps upper 50's

I'm happy the wattmeter has not decided to lock up.


In the previous post I said the dead air space 'on' my extra insulation was not so dead.
it would have been more accurate to say the dead air space inbetween the metal fridge body and first layer of insulation was not so dead, and that tiny space between the insulation attached to fridge and the insulation attached to the cabinet was not so dead.

Use some double sided tape to adhere the extra insulation around one side entire perimeter and then tape the corners, rather than just taping the corners/ edges from the exterior. If yo butt the insulation upto the mounting flanges if there is no tape close to the fridge body on the mounting flange then the cold air right next to fridge body tocuhes mounting flange making the extra insulation much less effective.

These electrical consumption numbers are impressive and I am a bit ashamed I waited 7 years to really get the insulation and door seals to this point. But I also never had issues with not enough battery power or ability to keep food at safe temperatures.

My Norcold Sawafuji powered compressor fridge only lasted 5 years, but its door seals were twice as wide. I still had issues with the corner below the latch not sealing and also had rust issues where the seal was to mate with the body.

Trying to get any more efficiency out of my fridge at this point, well once the third foam seal is cut and in place and the corners of the D seal closed off, would be difficult..

But 0.4 AH consumed each hour is less than 1/5th what this laptop consumes in an hour, is less than half of what my TV consumes.

I did not expect to be able to achieve less than 0.5Ah each hour consumption.

I had done side by side consumption tests with a chest style 50qt arb( with insulative cover) back in 2015, and my front loader won, and now it sees to be 30% more efficient with the better door seals and better insulation.

When someone states that chest style is more efficient, know there is a large asterix next to that claim. That cold air falling out is a bit of a myth in actual efficiency.

The very act of opening a Lid, or a door, displaces a huge amount of air inside. and the air inside has very little thermal mass compared to the solid items inside the fridge. If a front loader fridge is more convenient for your set up, do not alter your set up thinking a chest style is going to be more efficient, as I've proven that some spit and polish combined with logic can increase efficiency to rather ridiculous numbers.

I found that a chest style was much less convenient when I did the side by side test as getting the food/beverage from it required opening the lid farther and for longer, after taking things off the lid first.

I guess if thieves wanted a chest style portable they could be off with it in a few seconds. I can't remove my fridge without tools and several minutes, and most do not even realize there is a fridge inside.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (11-11-2019)
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#27
I finished the remaining exterior foam rubber door seal and restarted the wattmeter, and it has been going 96 hours now.

In those 96 hours the fridge has consumed 38.05 amp hours
 The average amp hour consumed per hour, is therefore 0.39.
My LEDs can easily draw more than that.

A few interesting observations were when I added 2 quarts of warm vegetable juice, and the consumption for that 12 hour period increased to 0.42 AH per hour
 The subsequent 24 hours with relatively cool ambient temperatures, usage dropped to 0.33 Ah per hour average. 
Looks like once the heat got sucked out of that 2 quart container of  vegetable juice, and it was taking up that  free space within the fridge, the fridge had to run less often.
The foam rubber  that the door closes within, is not really pretty
   
I inserted a lot more reflectix between the cooling unit and the body of the fridge, and around the Noctua A12x15 fan which pushes air into the condenser.  The original fan positioning had it pulling air through the condenser. Fans work better when pushing air through nearby resistance.
   
Here one can see the innermost D seal on the white plastic, and the original door seal
   

The latch being relocated has not been an issue, memory wise. I rarely reach for its former location on the top right side of the door.
I have not yet glued the corners of the innermost EPDM D seal, but I suspect little cool air is getting past the mitered corners.

Consumption going down in cooler ambient temperatures reveals the insulation is hardly perfect.  Part of the less electrical consumption is likely cooler ambient air pushed through the condenser.  I believe this shows how passive venting of the cooling unit compartment is an efficiency killer compared to an active air exchange of the cooling unit compartment.

The Danfoss compressor controller can power 0.5 amps of fans which turn on and off with the compressor.
The Noctua NF-f12 fan draws 0.05 amps.  It is very easy to have the danfoss compressor controller power more than the one fan.  It could power 10 NF-f12's.  One additional fan exhausting the cooling unit area would have been easier to do than my air tight cooling unit tunnel where the single condenser fan pulls coolest possible ambient air from below and pushes it out the cabinet.

The Fan which came on my fridge condenser draws 0.12 amps, so running one nf-f12 saved 0.07 amps

I'm likely to remove the wattmeter soon and end the data gathering.
  Mission accomplished.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (11-22-2019)
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