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alternator idle amps
#11
There are many ways to get higher voltage to batteries when driving , but none of them are really elegant, and some vehicles may freak out if the engine computer voltage regulator is bypassed.

About 2 years ago I managed to trick my 1889 engine computer and rig up an external adjustable VR. I modified this VR so I could twist a dial on my dash and dial in any voltage, and I giggle like a maniac every time I dial it upto 14.7v
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#12
For car computers I would think  you would have to isolate somehow the voltage to the battery, while allowing voltage to the computer to be where it wants to be. Do you think it would be possible to run dual regulators?
 The Captain and Crew Finally got their stuff together. 
 Now if they can only remember where they put it.   Rolleyes
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#13
I have one of those fancy leece neville ambulance alternators that has an external regulator you can adjust for both idle, high idle and max rpm voltages. The control module is under the dash. I would imagine you could put one of them on any vehicle. Most ambulances are van based.


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#14
A dedicate house battery alternator with its own circuit, with external regulation can be used and leave the OEM voltage regulation alone.

Most modern vehicles would have issues with any attempts to change System voltage.

Even my 89, if it sees 14.79+ for 30 seconds after it decided 13.7 is what it wanted, it will fire up the check engine light, and default to fuel air ratios an spark timing which rob power and MPG and the engine runs crusty until I reset the engine computer. I just keep voltage under 14.7 and no issues.

Balmar Marine makes adjustable voltage regulator with alternator temp sensors and belt saving features. It is some 350$+.

My Transpo adjustable voltage regulator was 25$, but I spent some extra on new thick copper and the resistor that is tricking the engine computer, and the 3600 degree potentiometer.

There are some DC to DC converters which will boost voltage to a house battery. Ctek has one, and so does Sterling and a likely few others. i am not personally familiar with these.

It still takes 3.5 hours to go from 80% to 100% when the battery was brought below 60%

There are So many variations vehicle to vehicle, there is no one right answer, just a lot of potential possibilities for maximizing charging amps into depleted house batteries.

Pre computer vehicles (~pre 1988) it is no huge issue to regulate voltage higher or lower.

Cant compare a 1985 to a 2005 though.

I've not modified an internally regulated alternator to external, but it is possible.

Any alternator chrging is better than no alternator charging.

Getting 14.7v at battery terminals, is as fast as a battery can be recharged. Most vehicles will not allow this for very long, if at all, and then quickly drop to 13.8v range.

It is impossible to really know what voltage any specific vehicle will choose without collecting the data on that vehicle, and when loaded with another 40 amp load, the extra heat generated might lower the voltage even more

My single Group27 Northstar AGM when depleted to about 40% state of charge, can accept 65.5 amps steady, for 22 minutes before voltage at battery terminals achieves 14.7v.

To achieve 13.6v from 40%, 65.5 amps gets the my battery terminals to that voltage in a few to several seconds, and amps taper from there rapidly, and time to full charge takes many many more hours total and 13.6v might never actually fully charge a battery.
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#15
(01-25-2018, 09:29 PM)sternwake Wrote: -------->
To achieve 13.6v from 40%, 65.5 amps gets the my battery terminals to that voltage in a few to several seconds, and amps taper from there rapidly, and time to full charge takes many many more hours total and 13.6v might never actually fully charge a battery.

And that seems to be the main problem.
  Hmm, the dual circuit with two alternators, (one dedicated for house only with a higher regulated voltage) might be a viable alternative, but may be a pain to set up a mount for it. Also would need a spare crank mounted drive pulley. Could possibly look at a dual alternator ambulance set up?
 The Captain and Crew Finally got their stuff together. 
 Now if they can only remember where they put it.   Rolleyes
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#16
(01-25-2018, 09:02 PM)Bucky_Snorts Wrote: I have one of those fancy leece neville ambulance alternators that has an external regulator you can adjust for both idle, high idle and max rpm voltages. The control module is under the dash.  I would imagine you could put one of them on any vehicle. Most ambulances are van based.

That would be totally worth looking in to.
 The Captain and Crew Finally got their stuff together. 
 Now if they can only remember where they put it.   Rolleyes
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#17
(01-25-2018, 09:29 PM)sternwake Wrote: Most modern vehicles would have issues with any attempts to change System voltage.

Yeah, for that reason alone I will stick with my old trust mechanically injected diesel.



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#18
Pre computer and getting a different regulator seeking 14.7 whenever the battery is undercharged is no big deal.

I was aware of a Lance neville regulator that was user adjustable but not the one which had 3 voltage thresholds depending on RPM

My alternator at hot idle can only make 50 amps at 525 rpm when hot. If/when 50 amps is nto enough to get my system voltage to 14.7v, then dialing up the voltage Regulator higher is not going to allow it to produce more than 50 amps, but more RPM will.

Headlights are about 15 to 18 amps, Hvac Blower motor on high is 18 amps. My engine reqires 8.2 amps for ignition and fuel pump and engine computer, at idle, 12.2 amps at 2000 rpm.

Some electric Loads eat up those 50 amps fairly easily. The cure is more RPM. The nemesis is traffic lights at night with Hvac fan running flat out..

Optimizing alternator charging can be taken to extremes, as can battery charging. Finding/accepting a compromise, is important, unless $ and time are no issue.

Personally i will keep my current alternator rather than trying for one which can make more juice at hot idle rpm. I will upgrade my cabling for less resistance, one day.


In addition to the use DC to DC boosters in the attempt to achieve 14.7v at the battery terminals, one can employ the DC inverter hooked to engine battery(80% efficient or so), powering a high amp charging source (upto 90% efficient) that is charging the house batteries. The Inverter hooked to engine battery should not be in engine compartment for thermal reasons, and perhaps should be PUre sine wave instead of Modified, and the Plug in charging source/converter/charger, should be capable of at least 30 amps but more is better.

A high amp charger on an inverter hooked to engine battery charging depleted house battery, at low rpms, could be a case of partially depleting the engine battery to charge the house battery, as the battery would have to supply what the alternator cannot, at low rpms.

This method is apparently widespread in Australia, and can make good sense especialy when house batteries are very far from Alternator, Like with a travel trailer or such. but it certainly can be avalid strategy for a Van or truck too. it just requires a dedicated inverter hooked to the engine battery, and might not be automatic depending on the charger.
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#19
(01-25-2018, 10:02 PM)Ballenxj Wrote: And that seems to be the main problem.
  Hmm, the dual circuit with two alternators, (one dedicated for house only with a higher regulated voltage) might be a viable alternative, but may be a pain to set up a mount for it. Also would need a spare crank mounted drive pulley. Could possibly look at a dual alternator ambulance set up?

The world of high end car audio frequently needs multiple alternators to power insanely huge amplifiers.  Do a Google search on "Multiple Alternators" and go for "images" and you will find numerous pictures of underhood setups with two, three, four and more alternators being driven by the engine.  I suspect brackets and pulleys are available from those people.

Example:

   
Regards

John


I don't like to make advance plans.  It causes the word PREMEDITATED get thrown around in the courtroom!
I'm NOT crazy!  My mother had me tested! Cool
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#20
(01-26-2018, 07:50 AM)Optimistic Paranoid Wrote:
(01-25-2018, 10:02 PM)Ballenxj Wrote: And that seems to be the main problem.
  Hmm, the dual circuit with two alternators, (one dedicated for house only with a higher regulated voltage) might be a viable alternative, but may be a pain to set up a mount for it. Also would need a spare crank mounted drive pulley. Could possibly look at a dual alternator ambulance set up?

The world of high end car audio frequently needs multiple alternators to power insanely huge amplifiers.  Do a Google search on "Multiple Alternators" and go for "images" and you will find numerous pictures of underhood setups with two, three, four and more alternators being driven by the engine.  I suspect brackets and pulleys are available from those people.

Example:
Idler pulley placement would seem to be key here, I see three, along with three alternators? One thing to keep in mind along the way is each additional alternator will require somewhere around 5 horsepower to run. I can easily see too many hurting fuel economy, but practical in the world of high end stereo for show. I think most of those guys are out to impress each other more than coming up with an efficient system.
 The Captain and Crew Finally got their stuff together. 
 Now if they can only remember where they put it.   Rolleyes
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