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Shuttle Bussin', Bitchin', and Grinnin'. Let's Get it on !!
#21
Hey there everyone!! A quick update on my "rig-to-be"... 
First thing...Got the propane tank out of one of my other trucks. Was actually alot easier than I imagined. 
[Image: ynMxsVTm.jpg]
Then it was on the roof to clean and seal all seams that may have caused leaking into interior. This is just a couple examples...
[Image: OTpJa5km.jpg][Image: tkUFRrdm.jpg]
There was also a couple places above the front windshield that were rusted through. Applied some JB Weld Putty...

[Image: FO2ez3Um.jpg]
Here is some pictures of the rust that is apparent in many areas on the interior metal tubing framing that I'm in the process of removing as much as possible. Then I applied some rust killing liquid, primer, and later (tomorrow) will be painted. The interior window frames were removed on one side to start with. This showed that the window sealant on outside section was bad. I could see daylight through many many places. I order 150 ft of butyl tape today so I could remove each window completely, repair rust on frame, and then reseal window when installed back. 
[Image: eFexNB2m.jpg][Image: ghHPZ6Um.jpg][Image: KUnPRurm.jpg]
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  • heron (07-07-2018)
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#22
Bertha is a rusty bitch as well. I am not near as handy as you mechanical/body wise, so this is good learning material. Tell me more about the rust stop liquid please.
bLEEp


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"Bertha" 27' Ford E450 Triton V10 Full time since 4/5/17
bLIp-bLOOp-bLOp -529 Forever- Will eat ticks for badges
YouTube = Driving Bertha 
Happy Trails!
bLEEps Big Grin
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#23
I will remove rear a/c. Mostly due to it causing me to hit my head many many times through out the day...example here...It literally took my hat off this time...lol..caught the button on top of hat. My hat was my warning device....
[Image: ybCbvtsm.jpg?1]
I need anyone (maybe Bleep could please help me with info) on how to remove the rear while keeping the front a/c in working order. This will also let me drop probably 200-300 lb off bus. 
[Image: Y90BdiIm.jpg][Image: YgjhClom.jpg];
More pictures of finished stuff...I falling asleep at laptop now...Whew....And the journey continues.....Thank you everyone !! 
**If someone see's Bleep please have him call me on my cell asap about rear a/c... . ***
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  • heron (07-07-2018)
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#24
(07-03-2018, 10:26 PM)bLEEp Wrote: Bertha is a rusty bitch as well.  I am not near as handy as you mechanical/body wise, so this is good learning material.  Tell me more about the rust stop liquid please.
bLEEp


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Please call me buddy !! . David

(dont put personal info in a public post,well unless you want a 1000 spam calls,Gary)
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#25
(07-03-2018, 10:31 PM)American Nomad Patriot Wrote:
(07-03-2018, 10:26 PM)bLEEp Wrote: Bertha is a rusty bitch as well.  I am not near as handy as you mechanical/body wise, so this is good learning material.  Tell me more about the rust stop liquid please.
bLEEp


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Please call me buddy !! . David

I use this stuff call "Os-pho" It's a green watery liquid that seals and converts rust. Well at least it slows it down. I used it alot on the tugboats to treat rust before painting. Being in the salt water all the time...it worked pretty darn good there. I won't be able to get to all the rust. But whether I can remove it or not I'm covering all the steel in this stuff. I'm painting it on.But it can be put in a spray bottle and applied that way too. I'll try to remember to take and share a picture(s) of the bottle. With before during  after pics.
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#26
did you get the bed-it butyl tape?

and if you didnt notice i remove your phone number,pm it to him
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#27
Ospho is my preferred rust treatment liquid.

My problem with it is once the rust turns black, I can then take a chisel to the black iron phosphate, and get at more rust below. lather rinse repeat until one hits bare pitted steel. Put the Ospho on a green scrubbie sponge to bare metal and even painted metal close to the rusted area and it is an amazing degreaser and cleaner.

Just painting over the black iron phosphate is all that is required according to the directions. I find it hard to not go a bit further. Damn OCD.

Keep the work area dry, free from overnight condensation, if one really wants the paint to properly bond and seal and slow the rust as much as possible.

I do not know if it is possible to remove the rear AC without losing the charge to the front AC.
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  • daonacetpi1969 (07-07-2018)
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#28
Try these guys for a rear block off kit. I put one on my Dodge when I removed the rear unit. Did have to recharge the system. Make sur you have a pro evacuate the system first.
http://streetrodguys.com/
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  • American Nomad Patriot (07-04-2018)
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#29
I just sent you a PM
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  • American Nomad Patriot (07-04-2018)
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#30
(07-04-2018, 05:59 AM)ratfink56 Wrote: Try these guys for a rear block off kit. I put one on my Dodge when I removed the rear unit. Did have to recharge the system. Make sur you have a pro evacuate the system first.
http://streetrodguys.com/
If there isn't a cheaper option I'll go ahead and get the kit. Thank you !! Much appreciated.  David
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