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FatvanSS Dragonwagon L.E.
After your write-up I've been looking for wood stove installs and found a small stove utube on creosote build-up in a camper w/single wall pipe. The stove manufacturer claimed single wall was fine.

The guy was burning wood almost all day and into the night, abt 18 hrs each day. Lots of gooey creosote and a thick wall of soot build-up. His fix was dbl wall flue pipe and made sure the inside pipe, was inside the next lower connection. In a later vid he found out the flue temp should be about 300* F to burn out the soot combustibles and goo and the high temps would keep it clean.

So 300* F in dbl wall pipe needs abt. 20" wall clearance. Other Vids say as long as you have a 1/2 - 1" clearance behind a baking sheet and wall your good but the 300* burn is needed. I'm thinking some hard coal burns hotter than wood and if your taking it down when moving you have a chance to clean out the insides before the next burn.

Interesting stuff regarding small stoves, though your probably on it already...
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here's a link discussing clearances https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/bl...materials/ would be state to state codes,when putting a 8" pipe in my house i think it was 3-4" for double walled pipe and feet for single,get a proper thimble for the through wall/ceiling and it will be made to code


if you have proper draw the creosote thing is more what you are burning and not how or how hot,in my house before winter i went to clean the pipe and there was next to nothing there for two stories after 4 cords of wood,the wood i burn is cured for a year and dry, a good hot fire every so often and it keeps itself clean

double wall pipe makes a huge difference in insulating but doesnt put off much heat because of it,the single lets a lot of heat pass so normally you have stove,single wall till past the damper and then double or triple walled pipe,my pipe is only 24' long so no room,a heat shield 1/4-1/2" off the wall will be fine for me,the through the wall stayed cool

link the the manufacture of my stove https://www.fatscostoves.com:444/


air movement is a must or the heat just goes straight up
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Good links. Something I overlooked you mentioned above and in your photo's, and in past posts (splitting wood) that make for a cleaner burn. You have a damper and your using dried hardwood
The Vid I was referring to had no damper and was using pine 2x4's. duh..
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(02-07-2019, 06:32 AM)Matlock Wrote: Good links. Something I overlooked you mentioned above and in your photo's, and in past posts (splitting wood) that make for a cleaner burn. You have a damper and your using dried hardwood
The Vid I was referring to had no damper and was using pine 2x4's. duh..

if you are going with wood,most cabinet shops will have a free scrap bin with kiln dried hardwood scraps,it's green uncured wood that juices up the pipe
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turned on the propane main and the burner lit right up so it would appear the system is holding pressure
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Blacktank for this post:
  • rvpopeye (02-09-2019)
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first internet post from inside the rv
[-] The following 3 users say Thank You to Blacktank for this post:
  • Blanch (02-17-2019), rvpopeye (02-17-2019), Cammalu (02-17-2019)
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And those words will live in posterity. LOL Guess it's better than "anybody out there".
Brian

2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile "The Beast" (it has been tamed hopefully)  I feed it and it doesn't bite me.   Angel
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