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A Large Fetch
Largest South Swell of the season peaked today.

i got a few in this size range and one larger. Good to have that adrenaline/endorphin buzz going on again. Got hammered a few times too, held down doing underwater cartwheels for longer than expected.

[Image: img_6894copy.jpg]

I took this photo about a half hour after getting out.
Looks like a lot of fun except for the underwater cartwheels...
I'd rather underwater cartwheels, on coral, than to find this surfer riding my wave.
Beast Master,JunkyMonkey,Drinks with Wolves,Fup'd Duck,Sheriff Ricochet Cockroach 4B's 1 cluster,3 TFMS Tempory Weirdo Overlord replacement 
Oh that’s VERY badddd
When that image first went viral. Lots of debate that it could be a dolphin. As they will rotate when riding wave making tail appear sharklike.

But i prefer everybody think it is a shark. Big mean hungry and after exclusively surfers stand up paddleboarders and boogie boarders and swimmers who become obstacles i surf zone.

Lots of tourists getting hit by sting rays this summer. Saw one kid in total shock with 3/4 inch size hole in calf bleeding profusely. Stingray must have been huge.

Should worry way more about them than sharks
The Indian Ocean has been the breeding ground of extremely large groundswells lately, with Indonesia seeing the biggest waves it has seen, in the modern era. Footage is just starting to trickle out of the current swell down there.

There was apparently nobody on this boat, the swell ripped it from its moorings in normally safe and calm water:

I recommend muting the Audio.

The swell here had dropped a little bit today, but far less than forecast. However there was one 8 wave set which came in which had some serious grunt behind it and was as powerful as anything I had seen yesterday. I saw it early and was stroking like a madman for the horizon and deeper water, and there was about 5 guys inside of me, whom i waved goodbye to as I paddled safely over the first one that they had no hope of making it over or under.


Then the second one was a bit larger, and since the first one had taken a a bunch of water off the sandbar and reversed the general flow of water, I had to throw on the after burners and just made it over #2, and Number 3.

Number 4 however was already crumbling at the crest, and I felt had no choice but to try and duckdive it. And I thought I was golden, but then instead of safely coming out the back of the wave, I got that sickening weightless feeling, and pushed my board off to the side underwater while waiting for the beating, and lucked out, it was not that bad, and I quickly retreived my board and was able to safely make it over 5 6 7 and 8. truth be told, I could have spun around and caught 5 6 or 7, just to take the drop, as there was no shoulder to ride, but was too scared, and riding over the turbulence of the wave before is more than a bit challenging. Basically to was too big for this surfbreak to handle.

There was only one other surfer who was as far out as I was, and after this 8 wave set we were alone for no less than 15 minutes. Everybody else was washed in so far and taken so far northward by the current, they were out of view.

I was looking shoreward and lining up near and far objects at 3 different angles to triangulate my position and realized I had never been this far out at this spot before.

An hour and a dozen rides later or So, I saw that horizon warble and turn dark, then looked at my landmarks and motored out to the spot I located after that massive 8 wave set which cleared the lineup. The very first one, appeared to be makeable, and I knew that i was basically looking at my last wave, my ride in. I knew if i did not make the drop I would have many huge waves on the head, and it could be safer to just paddle and keep paddling like I did on that previous massive set an hour earlier, but it could also be a long time before I would ever be presented wiuth a wave of this size again, andone which appeared to be makeeable, at least for a short distance.

So Instead of paddling safely over it, I spun around and paddled hard and was lifted skyward as the bottom dropped out. I got to my feet and adding the~ 5 extra feet from this vantage point, to the ~12 to 14 perhaps + foot wave face, was a bit more than thrilling.

My feet were in the right spot on the board, and I had no issues making it to the bottom and putting it on rail to turn more parallel to shore. Felt like I was doing mach 3. The wave was stretching off into the distance, I was not going to get a good long ride, but I got up high in the wave face on my heel side rail and as the lip began to throw out and up, I switched to the other rail and and pushed off angling back to the trough, and was now firmly into mach 5 speed. Looking over my shoulder as the wave was breaking top to bottom, coming right at me. Massive and powerful and downright scary. I put my board flat in the water to retain as much speed as possible in the trough, straight to shore and away from the falling lip of the wave which was coming to gring me into sardine paste.

The lip detonated about 4 feet behind me and encased me in spray and I managed to retain my footing through the turbulence and being completely blinded by spray and deeafened by the sound. I then got down on my belly to ride out the rest of the massive turbulence and to take the wave to shore, and still angling northward, to reduce the amount of distance I'd have to walk back to my Van I was barely able to hold on, and if bucjed off this can be dangerous and the board then is getting thrashed right nect to one's body, and my board is heavy, strong, and made of wood.

But I held on.

When I got onto the cobblestones and up the steep slope of them, I looked seaward and there were at least 8 more waves as big or bigger than the one I just rode and took to shore, and I sat there just watching each one wash up to me feet, before beginning that walk back to my Van

There was some guy in his late 50's or so, on the bluff, who said.

"That was Fvcking sick man, your last ride was awesome. Awesome to watch!" I said thanks, and he said,
" No, thank you"

I said:
" Thank the Ocean, not me."

I turned around faced the ocean and did so, then I saw him stand up cautiously, and go limp down to the ocean's edge.
[-] The following 3 users say Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • AbuelaLoca (07-26-2018), GotSmart (07-26-2018), Scott7022 (07-27-2018)
Great writing! I could see, feel, and hear it!! Way to paint it, my friend!!!

Awesome! I so miss the Ocean! The Black sea is nice but it ain't no Ocean.

I searched the two photos before I posted them to see if I could get a definitive answer. All I could find is that they were real. Yeah hard to tell dolphin or shark. Although both are equally wild and potentially dangerous.

One of my favourite dives was a Whale shark dive we did off Mozambique. Tanks filled to 125 percent and dragged behind the boat to keep cool. The first dive was a current float at 33 feet to see the big boys. Got close to an hour out of that tank. After a lunch of freshly caught fish of some sort. Decompression dive to 90 was next and we sat on a shelf that dropped into the abyss and watched Morey Ells as big as fire hoses and Hammer Head Sharks circle us. Spooky as the ends of the head where the eyes are actually flexing while they swim. The fear you have to let go of to make decompression stops on the way up to the safety of the boat is such a teaching and learning activity. All the while the predators move a little closer to the bubbling morsel. The 15-foot safety stop is hardest as you know you are probably ok to get in the boat, but having been bent twice, once from stupidity and once out of necessity, I do them religiously. So many silent angles to watch as this is the perfect tease zone for big fish with sharp teeth.

Wouldn't change any of that dive for a hundred grand.
Beast Master,JunkyMonkey,Drinks with Wolves,Fup'd Duck,Sheriff Ricochet Cockroach 4B's 1 cluster,3 TFMS Tempory Weirdo Overlord replacement 
You both make me afraid!!
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Cammalu for this post:
  • Scott7022 (07-27-2018)

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