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Tales from a Ventilation Enthusiast
I arrived back in California a few nights ago, and found a 180mm fan grille I purchased a while back for the FM181, which was way too small for a 180mm fa, is actually designed for a 140mm fan. I had painted it black when i got it too, as these do rust in my environment.

I have not yet modified my shroud for the larger 140mm fan, and will not do so until the Marine Amazing goop is no longer stinky. I applied it tover the solder joints where the wires enter, as I will do to every fan from now on.

I have discovered aother fan failure however, the 60mm Noctua fan mounted to the lid of my Meanwell rsp-500-15 adjustable voltage power supply, which I use as a charger, is not spinning. So it looks like i get to open up another email chain with Noctua regarding its replacement as it is still well within the 6 year warranty period.

So it appears removing the 'N' wrd from thread title was not effective in reducing my fan failures.
I had opened up my HVAC blower motor to free up the stuck brushes, and when driving through east Texas, the thing quit working again, and once again I found the brushes stuck in their holders. I reduced their size slightly with some worn 220 grit sandpaper on a block, lubed them with dielectric grease and all is working again.

Getting this motor apart requires bending steel flanges upwards, and there is not really a good way to do so, and they need to be tamped back down afterwards. I expect they would snap off after one more opening and closing so this time better be the last time I need to open up this POS blower motor. I could likely cut new tangs with a dremel and reindex it if I had to, but I better not have to. Removing and reinstalling the blower motor is pretty easy, but I do have to remove the upper half of my radiator shroud and slide it to the side to get the motor completely out. This is not all that hard either, just 4 bolts relatively easy to get to.

I located the counter rotating 120mm arctic cool fan in my workshop, but have not yet wired it up or installed it to push air into the silverstone fm121. this fan is a PWM, and thus it too can be speed controlled, but I need to run a 5v PWM signal wire upto it to do so.

I have cobbled together such a device in order to do so, in the past, but it is not very efficient, and the Noctua speed controller is much mroe sleek, but it is employed in my intake fan shroud. I could speed control this counter rotating fan in parallel with my intake fan(s) but it would be better to have it independently controlled. I could do so now with the voltage bucker and PWM signal generator I set up, but these two devices together are bulky inefficient, and do not seem to allow the minimum speed that the noctua NA-fc1 controller allows .

I've got some ideas to increase roof exhaust flow further, basically by cutting a new hole and making my own mushroom style vent. I want one or two of those Pabst 283 cfm fans, even though I do not really require more ventilation. but I'm an addict.
So now we get to the root of your chord....
Your title needs to be Ventilation Addict , without a doubt. Wink 

Although enthusiast needs to stay to....

The Enthused Ventilation Addict....naaaaaaahhhhh Tongue

Just Need Air , nope.

Fan Man , eeeeewwwwwwwwwwww

All too meh. Confused

The Ventilation Nazi  , now
THAT just has true grit.

You even get to say
"Fan For You !"

OR of course...
"NO FAN FOR YOU ! (Mr.61)"  Angry

Stay Tuned

Weirdo Overlord  YARC 
15 "Stinkin'Badges"  a "Full Monty Badge" 2 "Just Ignore Me" clusters  10 "Pine Cone" clusters  , one "Stinkin' Badger" and 7 of the coveted "Flying Manure Spreader"awards
(What a "Stinkin' " honor !)

Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggh there be ventilation in your future mateeeeeeee!!

Good News on the 60mm Noctua, The positive wire simply rotted off the circuit board, encased in green fuzz.

Another fan sucumbs to the green corrosion at the wire entry.

But I nipped away at the hub with some side cut wire cutters until I could see well enough to get a soldering iron in there to reattach. I bridged the red and yellow wire entry, the yellow being a rpm signal to the non existent computer mother board. This was unintentional and undesirable, and remedied after the multimeter confirmed my suspicions.

This wire entry is now submerged and encased with curing Amazing Goop. The inside of the Meanwell Power supply had some badly impacted dust in a few nooks and crannies.

The Arctic Cool f12 PWM fan is installed.

I had one of these fail, but it was 11.5 years old and colored differently. the special mounting rubber feet which hold the hub to frame had long broken off and screws and Zipties took over.

Which caused me to buy a newer one half that age, which lasted but a few months before failure, cause not determined or remembered or both.

The original was then reemployed and only failed recently and the one employed today was bought mainly as a backup, and since it had PWM speed control, I might employ that feature. I did add a PWM third wire to the blue when I soldered red and black so the speed control option is still there. It is much quieter than the recently failed unit, due to rubber mounts replacing screws and zipties. It also places more space between it and the silverstone fm121 it is feeding.

Me thinks this extra 5 to 8mm distance betweeen counter rotating fan blades is Mo betta from airflow and perhaps noise perspective. Unfortunately these rubber feet are all too easily broken.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (03-15-2019)
The plot thickens ,,, should it be called stew ?
Tune in next time for the next episode of "I kill my fans 4 U".
Brought to you by our "Ain't Right" sponsor "Boondocking Science" coming soon to a forum near you..... baaaaahahahaha.
Full speed ahead arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
(Do we have any torpedoes left ? I don't knowwwwwwwwww.)
Stay Tuned

Weirdo Overlord  YARC 
15 "Stinkin'Badges"  a "Full Monty Badge" 2 "Just Ignore Me" clusters  10 "Pine Cone" clusters  , one "Stinkin' Badger" and 7 of the coveted "Flying Manure Spreader"awards
(What a "Stinkin' " honor !)

The 80mm Noctua fan mounted to the lid of my Meanwell power supply as an exhaust fan, got cleaned and its wire entry points encased with Amazing Goop. There was enough impacted dust inside the Meanwell that I bet had I left it to accumulate, then one high humidity day could cause shorts between internal components I suspect impacted dust was a contributing factor to some previous fans' failures, and why I seemed to suffer so many faiulres shortly after I arrived in Florida's humidity last November.

I'll be very sad when this meanwell powersupply fails. It turns 5 this october and has a LOT of use on it.

I broke down and ordered one Papst 283cfm fan. I do not really need this fan, but I need to know how it responds to the voltage buck/boost unit I already have, and how much wattage it actually consumes maximum, and at the speeds i am likely to use it at. Then I will figureout if and where and how I will employ it.

Fan 10$ shipping 15$. Oh well.

The Arctic Cool f12 counter rotating fan feeding the SS fm121 is so much better than the SS fm121 alone exhausting my ceiling. It is amazing how much quieter the fm121 fan at highest speed gets when the AC fan is turned on, and the amount of air that comes through the slowed intake fans also increases noticeably.
The Papst fan arrived. 

it will start spinning on 7.5 volts, but once spinning one can keep it spinning slowly lowering voltage  to about 7 volts, it makes weird ticking noises down this low and moves next to no air..

@7.6v it draws 0.09 amps
@8v it draws 0.16 amps
@9v it draws 0.25 amps
@10v it draws 0.31amps
@11v it draws 0.35 amps
@12v it draws 0.46 amps
@12.8v it draws 0.51 amps
@13.6v it draws 0.55amps
@14.4 it draws 0.6 amps
@14.8 it draws 0.64 amps
@ 16v it draws 0.72 amps
@17v it draws 0.8 amps
@18v it draws 0.91
@21v-----1.2 amps
@25v------1.72 amps
@29------- 2.21
@30v-------- 2.37
@33v ----------2.99amps

My Drok voltage buck/booster is rated to 33 volts output, but actually goes higher.  Seeing as how the amperage was gaining another 0.25 amps with every volt over 32,  I did not bother to test upto 36v.  The rpms did not seem to really increase proportionally with each volt over 31 so i would not really want to run the fan much faster, seeeing as how the amp draw went way up.

The exit  airflow is relatively concentrated in a column. placing my hand close  in front of it does not alter the sound of the fan or change its speed, but behind it and it does.  This should be a good fan for blowing against restrictions

The 252cfm 120mm screaming banshee Delta fan moves air at higher velocity.  This velocity makes it seem to move more air.

Side by side I cannot hear the Papst fan at all, when the screaming banshee is getting 13 volts, even with the papst fan getting 33 volts.

The air movement at 12 and 14 volts is still impressiive, and the amount of air moved at 12V FOR 0.46 AMPS, is a lot, in comparison to a 120mm 0.6 amp fan I employ and i is much quieter.   I think users could use this at regular 12v battery voltage or less, using only a bucker/voltage reducer if they wanted.  I really want the turbo ability of 30 volts, but the air moved at 12 volts is still impressive, and it is quiet compared to 120mm fans moving the same amount o air.

Obviously the higher the voltage the more noise and amp draw and air moved. 33 volts and the air moved is likely 283 or  higher, but I have no way to atually measure it.

So while the fan is listed at 1.1 amps, I only drew this around 20 volts input and was upto 3 amps at 33 volts.

I was not using short thick wiring to the drok buck/booster.  22 awg zip wire and likely 10 feet of it, for testing.  no doubt some losses there.  I do not think the Drock buck booster is a very efficient one.  It did not seem to get very hot boosting 12-13 volts to 33volts  for 5 minutes passing 3 amps. its rated for 5 amps or 80 watts. 

My  Clamp ammeter was on the wire feeding the drok, not the oe coming out of it, so the voltage was 12.x x 3 amps for ~37ish watts when the fan was fed 33 volts through the drok

I did run the fan directly from a 100 watt solar panel @3pm , in cloudy skies  through the drok and things went haywire when i dialed in over ~18 volts.  I was glad to see the drok recovered when attached back to a battery but I thought i smoked it..

The fan comes with a weird 5 wired pin barrel type of plug.  there are red and black wires inside of the 5 wire sheathing.  I did not test the fan before cutting the connector off.  probably should have.  not sure what the other 3 wires are supposed to do.

It makes a weird noise on initial fire up, and every subsequent from a dead stop.

The tips of the fan blades is likely within 1MM of the fan body.

I've not yet inspected how to remove the impeller a gain a look see at the guts.

Not yet sure how I am going to employ this fan, yet
I wound up routing out one 120MM fan hole on my acrylic intake shroud, bigger, to accept the 140MM 3k rpm industrial Noctua Fan.

While working on this and routing wires, i had the E Papst fan running at various voltages/ speeds/noise levels nearby, and have readjusted my opinion on its noise levels at reduced speeds.

There is no way I could employ the Papst fan at slow speeds inside my Van, the motor noise is significantly more than the computer muffins fans at slow speeds. I think the Papst would be fine if a wide airflow range was desired and low rpm speeds if the fan was far enough away to not be an issue. but I do not believe I would use it to replace my current fan set up exhausting my ceiling. Perhaps in parallel when hot and required, and closed off and powered off completely when its additional airflow is not required.

At higher speeds then the papst fan can move significant air for less noise than the computer fans at their higher speeds and similar airflow levels.

I can easily sleep with the Fm181 and 120 and 140mm Noctuas at their slow to even medium speeds mere inches from my ears, but the papst fan could not be tolerable slowed as slow as it could go, in this same location.

The extra 50 CFM and static pressure rating of the 140MM noctua warranty replacement is quite apparent. If I have my ceiling exhaust counter rotating fans on high and the 3 fans in the intake shroud on high, and all the doors closed, opening the side door changes the tone of the intake fans dramatically. If I try and close the door , just keep it cracked, the fan's pressure will open the door further, and If I stand outside the door and push it close to being closed I can feel the air gushing out around the open door. This was also apparent with the two Noctua 120mm fans, but the 140mm fan replcing one of the 120s made the effect much greater.

When i employ the 2 shrouded fans in my passneger side front window as exhaust fans on high speed there is still a bit of air that gets expelled out the side door.

When I had the shroud out for modification of one 120mm hole to a 140mm hole, I realized I could indeed employ two 140mm fans in this shroud and will likely ask for another 140mm Fan when the industrial 3k 120mm Noctua fails, like its three brethern did.
The 140Mm Noctua fan has yet to spin up backwards on intiial powering up, leaving me to hope it is not as susceptible to failure as the IPPC nf-f12 3000rpm version.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (03-28-2019)

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